Baja Norte

Expect a Tent. Get an Experience.

When someone recommended “Yatai” to us, I expected a fancy restaurant tucked away in Ensenada’s downtown. Maybe soft jazz. Maybe a waitlist. Instead, I found a carreta—yes, a literal street cart. But don’t let that fool you. This cart packs more fire (sometimes literally) than many fine-dining kitchens.

Yatai, which in Japanese means “mobile food stall,” is led by chef David Lara and Marco Antonio Salinas. Although it may appear modest, what’s happening behind the counter is far from ordinary. Chef David trained in Mexico, but his culinary compass points straight to Japan. In fact, he’s even performed ronqueos—the knife skills required to break down a whole bluefin tuna. It’s not just impressive; it’s sacred in Japanese seafood culture.

One Meal, Many Surprises

My husband Oliver and I chose Yatai to celebrate our wedding anniversary. At first, we weren’t even sure we’d found the right place. After all, you don’t expect high-end omakase under a tarp. But there it was—and as soon as we sat down, the team welcomed us with a complimentary sake. A small detail, but a thoughtful one. And yes, it was real Japanese sake (they even showed us the bottle).

We ordered the omakase—a Japanese tradition where the chef decides what you’ll eat. It translates to “I leave it up to you,” and when you leave it to Chef David, you’re in expert hands. He watched us as we tasted, quietly noting our reactions to guide the next course. That night, I discovered I like sea urchin more than I ever thought possible.

For our third experience, we brought Chef David and Marco to our home for a larger family gathering. Since Yatai only has six seats and we were a group of ten, this setup made more sense. That time, we had tuna from Bluefina. Every dish felt intentional, fresh, and beautifully executed. Here’s what we enjoyed during that experience:

1. Seaweed salad
2. Oyster with negitoro (minced tuna belly + green onion)
3. Kampachi nigiri
4. Akami nigiri (lean tuna)
5. Chutoro nigiri (medium fatty tuna)
6. Truffled tuna tartare
7. Seared salmon nigiri
8. Toro nigiri with truffle paste
9. Spicy onion hand roll
10. Truffle hand roll
11. Miso soup
12. Eel with foie gras

Yes, you read that last one right. Eel. With foie gras. It sounds insane—but it tastes like silk and smoke with a hint of “this is your new favorite dish.”

The Secret Is in the Ingredients

While the presentation wows, it’s the ingredients that make Yatai unforgettable. Every element is fresh, often local, and carefully selected. Take the oyster, for example. It came from Bahía Falsa in San Quintín—a great origin on its own. But the way it was prepared? That turned it into the best oyster I’ve ever eaten. The tiny flower on top wasn’t just decoration. It was flavor. It was purpose.

Then there’s the value. In a town where food prices keep climbing “Valle-style,” Yatai remains grounded. Chef David delivers top-tier ingredients without the high-end ego. And when you’re feeding a family of six like mine, that matters.

Chef David isn’t just slicing fish—he’s crafting memories, quietly building something special under that awning. So if you find yourself lucky enough to land a seat at Yatai, don’t ask for the menu. Just let go. Trust the chef. Let the food speak.

After all, not every treasure sparkles on the outside. Some smell like seared toro… and taste like love.

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