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Gringo Gazette

What Mexico Has Taught Me

BY THE UNKNOWN GRINGO

International Trade

I’m a docent at the Autry Museum of the American West where I take kids on tours during the school year. Usually grade school but sometimes older. No matter what age they are I always start my tour in front of the huge, stuffed bison / American buffalo we have. He’s visually impressive and I tell the kids how the native Americans would use the bison’s meat, bones, organs, sinew, hooves, leather, and fur to make food, tools, clothes, shoes, blankets, weapons, containers, and shelters called teepees. Nothing went to waste and the products they made were often traded far and wide with tribes that didn’t live in the Great Plains area.

The Pacific Coast natives, of course, harvested ocean fish and shellfish. There is evidence that the sea shells they collected were traded from tribe to tribe to tribe going eastward all the way into Nevada. Traded, eventually, to people that would never understand or see an ocean. The shells were used for beads, jewelry, ornaments, and fish hooks. They were an object of great prestige and could be considered a form of money because of that.

Does any of this apply to me or you? It sure does when some of my friends know I’m going to Mexico soon. They want me to bring back STUFF FOR THEM. The latest thing is Voltaren, an arthritis pain relief gel. They can easily get it here in the States but it is usually at 1% strength. In Mexico I can get it at Extra Strength of 2.32% AND at a better price than regular strength up north. I made the mistake of telling two friends I was doing this for one friend. Bingo, now I have three customers!!

Coffee. I get ground coffee for the woman who was my father’s wound care nurse and now feeds my beloved kitty when I am gone. I get her a wide range of beans from Chiapas, Oaxaca, and Veracruz. I tell her to save the empty bag of anything she wants more of. So far, she likes them all.

Cuban cigars. My mailman pushed me to do this many years ago. He didn’t want big fat ones. He wanted the small thin ones. I got him some, he said he liked them ……. and he wouldn’t pay me back. I kept reminding him. It took several months of me hounding him. He finally paid and then got transferred to another area of town. He was already off my list.

Olive oil. The oil made in the Guadalupe Valley by L.A.Cetto can be found at their winery in the valley, at their store in Ensenada, and sometimes at the large Calimax in Tecate. Again, I have three customers and packing 750ml bottles of olive oil on a motorcycle takes some delicate planning. (The Voltaren and coffee travel much easier.) Oddly enough, I haven’t even tried the local stuff because I buy small 250ml bottles of olive oil at Trader Joe’s.

Menthol cigarettes. Their getting banned in California in November, 2022 caused one desperate neighbor to ask me to get cartons of them EVERY TIME I went to Mexico. I had to turn him down. I did not want to have Customs at the border looking at me suspiciously and I wish there was no such thing as tobacco to harm good people. I would have felt guilty supplying him. 

When I started going to Mexico over 30 years ago I would go to the first Costco that Tijuana had. This was years before Ensenada finally got one. I would see Americans buying DOZENS of cartons of American cigarettes and was told they sneak them back across the border because cigarettes made in the U.S. cost a lot less in Mexico because there is no tax on them there. They would hide them in their RV’s and make good money selling them to their friends back home. Help to pay for part of their vacation down south. 

Mole. One year I sent surprise Christmas gifts to several friends that had salsa macha, Japanese peanuts, and mole in each box. Those packages went to friends in California, Utah, Oregon, and Alaska. The guy in Alaska sent me a desperate letter in return. Could I please send more mole because his estranged girlfriend loved the stuff and she was barely speaking to him even though they were still living together in the same house? Drama. That mole could solve? He got his wish but they remain “just friends”.

And this international trade goes in both directions. I have a buddy who works in a liquor store in Ensenada who asks me to bring un-baked buttermilk biscuits in a tube. Sure. Cheap, easy, small. Just pack them in a plastic bag in case a tube “blows”. No ruptures yet.

High-end American craft beer that isn’t exported down south. One guy swears the beer I brought him that’s made in Michigan is the best he’s ever tasted. For years I’ve given out my favorite IPA from Seattle to friends down there. It’s Elysian Space Dust IPA. The room I create for this stuff going south on my motorcycle makes room for olive oil going north.

Ice Cream. I tried taking Haagen-Dazs ice cream south ONCE over twenty years ago for a friend who works at my favorite hotel. With dry ice and lots of insulation in a cooler in my van. He had to rush it across the street to a restaurant’s freezer since it had turned too soft.

Drill bits. For a friend who worked in a gem shop and needed special drill bits for shaping his stones and minerals. A dear friend. Who never paid me back. I let it go because he was so much older than me and was probably struggling financially. I wrote about him before in the March 27, 2023 article about the Big Bottle of Mezcal – Part Two.  He was almost a legend to me with all the stories he would tell me late at night over a bottle of mezcal about “lost Spanish gold mines, partnerships ending in murder, briefcases of money that would bring out the worst in men, eight foot tall human skeletons found in a cave, mining huge meteorites in the desert for big bucks, and how eating powdered rattlesnake helped him to please the ladies”. He’s passed now and when I go by his old shop I can get a little choked up. I wish I could buy him more drill bits.

A lot of things cross our border in both directions. People, ideas, music, food, products. Sometimes with conflict but also with convergence. International trade brings us closer. My motorcycle and I are a small part of that. I imagine most of you are.

Women Take Charge at All Levels of Government

Move over boys, there’s a new leadership trend sweeping Baja California—one led predominantly by women, and it’s a major shift. If you blinked, you might’ve missed the news: women are now leading at nearly all levels of government in our beloved Baja. It’s like the rest of Mexico finally got the memo that Baja’s ladies have been calling the shots at home long enough—now they’re officially taking the reins in city halls and beyond, too.

Rosarito’s got itself a new boss lady: Rocio Adame, stepping in as mayor and keeping the coastal vibes positive while showing the boys how it’s done. Not to be outdone, Ensenada welcomes Claudia Agaton as the new mayor—yes, the same Ensenada that’s known for its expansive coastline, fine wine, and, apparently, a no-nonsense approach to governance.

Moving further down to the beautiful desert city of Mexicali, Alicia Bustamante is ready to bring some much-needed feminine finesse. And over in San Quintin, we have Miriam Cano, who’s got her sleeves rolled up to take on whatever challenges the town throws her way.

If you’re starting to see a pattern here, you’re right. This new wave of leadership isn’t just a coincidence—it’s a carefully orchestrated revolution by the Morena party, who has seemingly decided that women’s time to lead has arrived. With Marina del Pilar already paving the way as the Governor of Baja California for three years now, and the new President of Mexico, Claudia Sheinbaum, stepping into office, it’s safe to say that Mexico’s political landscape is getting a much-needed dose of diversity and representation at every level.

Claudia Sheinbaum’s rise to the presidency is a historic moment—not just for Baja California, but for all of Mexico. As the first woman elected as President of Mexico, Sheinbaum brings a wealth of experience from her time as the Mayor of Mexico City, where she implemented groundbreaking social programs, strengthened environmental policies, and tackled the challenges of urban insecurity head-on. While she has made it clear that she intends to continue many of the initiatives started by her predecessor, Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO), her leadership offers a fresh perspective, especially as she builds on these foundations with her own approach and ideas.

Of course, let’s not forget our lone cowboys still holding it down. San Felipe’s José Luis Dagnino, Tecate’s Román Cota, and Tijuana’s Ismael Burgueño are the exceptions to the all-woman lineup—but they, too, carry the Morena banner. We’ll see if they can keep up with the ladies or if they’ll just be taking notes.

Now, let’s not get too ahead of ourselves; nobody’s saying this guarantees utopia overnight. Politics, after all, is a complex beast. But the Morena party has clearly decided it’s time for a different approach. And given the history of male-dominated leadership in Mexico, it’s hard not to feel a little bit hopeful. A little bit curious. Maybe even a little bit excited.

After all, there’s something undeniably refreshing about seeing Baja’s leadership reflect the women who’ve long been its backbone—whether it’s managing businesses, raising families, or, as of now, governing municipalities. This isn’t just about representation—it’s about tapping into a wealth of talent and perspective that’s been long overlooked in political spaces. And with Claudia Sheinbaum at the helm of the nation, it’s also about demonstrating that leadership isn’t a man’s game anymore.

Sheinbaum’s presidency also brings hope for tackling some of Baja’s ongoing issues. Baja’s security situation has been, shall we say, a bit of a rollercoaster. With this new wave of leadership—women who are known for their pragmatism, empathy, and strong will—perhaps we can finally start seeing meaningful, lasting improvements that make our neighborhoods safer for everyone. Sheinbaum’s emphasis on community-oriented security measures and her previous work in reducing crime rates in Mexico City might just be what Baja needs to see more stability and safety at the local level.

So what does this mean for Baja? Hopefully, better policies for families, more community-focused initiatives, and an approach to leadership that values collaboration over conflict. And let’s be real—one thing we’re all hoping for is better security across the board. With leaders like Marina del Pilar and Claudia Sheinbaum setting the tone, we have reason to believe that a different kind of politics—one that focuses on the well-being of every citizen—might just be possible.

But let’s not forget—these women aren’t just there to play nice. They’re tough, they’re determined, and they’re ready to make waves.

October 7, 2024 Edition

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September 23, 2024 Edition

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Valle de Guadalupe Film Festival to Honor Mexican Filmmaker Alfonso Arau

Lights, camera, action! The first edition of the Valle de Guadalupe Film Festival is kicking off with a well-deserved tribute to renowned Mexican filmmaker Alfonso Arau. Known for directing hits like A Walk in the Clouds (starring Keanu Reeves), Zapata: The Dream of a Hero, and the iconic Like Water for Chocolate, Arau has made a lasting impact on Mexican cinema. This special homage will take place on Friday, September 20, at 5:30 PM at the Museo de la Vid y el Vino. 

Arau also holds the unique distinction of being the first to direct famed American director Woody Allen in the film Picking Up the Pieces. Intrigued?

You can learn more fascinating details like this at the film discussion led by critic Ernesto Diezmartínez, starting at 6:00 PM right after the tribute. Following this, the visual artist Julio Orozco will unveil his exhibition “Halls of the Past, Projections of the Future” at 7:00 PM.

To round off the festival’s opening day, there will be a concert of “Great Works of the Seventh Art” performed by the Wind Quintet of the Baja California Orchestra at 8:30 PM. And if that’s not enough, stick around for the video mapping presentation “Libélula” at 10:00 PM.

Best of all? Admission to all these activities is free! The festivities start on Friday, September 20, at 5:30 PM at the Museo de la Vid y el Vino in Valle de Guadalupe. The museum is located at Carr. Fed. Tecate-Ensenada Km 81.3371 Fracc. Norte, 22750 Francisco Zarco, B.C.

For the full festival program, visit: https://festivaldecinevalleguadalupe.com

What Mexico Has Taught Me

BY THE UNKNOWN GRINGO

COMPARISON IS THE THIEF OF JOY

Comparison is the thief of joy.  You know who said that?  Theodore Roosevelt, the U.S. President from 1901-1909.  And I get his point.  If I compare myself to another man……. younger, handsome, beautiful house, in better shape, Italian sports car, whiter teeth, doesn’t have hair growing out of his nose or ears like I do…… then I start looking for the mezcal.  There is always someone doing better than me.  

But over the years I have compared myself to people I know who have a passion for a place that is as strong as mine is for Ensenada.  And what it takes for them to get to that place versus what it takes for me to get to Ensenada is interesting.

I met my best-friend-from-college, Dan, when I moved to Oregon.  He met Ruth there.  They got married and live in a small town off Highway 5 between Portland and Salem.  And they are absolutely in love with Newfoundland.  This started in 1998 and they fly there two times a year out of Portland to either Minneapolis or Atlanta, then to Toronto, then to St. John’s, Newfoundland.  It takes them about 16 hours from their front door to the hotel that they like.  16 hours.

Dan says Toronto is the worst part of the trip.  The flight regs for Air Canada say that if there is lightning in the area you have to wait in your parked plane on the tarmac a full hour until after that possibility passes before you can pull up to the jet way and exit the plane.  They have sat in their plane for hours before the lightning leaves.  And they have sat and watched their connecting flight take off without them.  It’s called a ground stop. 

Now they have also fallen in love with New Zealand.  Wanna guess?  Their home to Portland to LAX to Auckland to Christchurch airport is 27 and a half hours.  And finally to their B&B destination there’s a 3 and a half hour drive in a rental car.  That’s 31 hours from bed to bed.  31.

Let’s compare.  I had my best-friend-from-childhood’s daughter come to live with me for two years from her home in Utah while she pursued a career as an actress.  Her heaven on earth?  Disneyland.   As a child her whole family would drive a full day to get to Los Angeles for the beach…..and Disneyland.  Just 35 miles from where I live.  Kelly bought an annual pass and sometimes went there twice a day…… with a friend and then maybe by herself later on.  From my house to the House of the Mouse?  An hour maximum if traffic is slow on Highway 5.  Maybe an hour.

Now.  Me.  To Ensenada.  On a motorcycle.  For years I used to drive my cargo van when I was buying solid wood rancho furniture in Rosarito and Ensenada.   A comfortable room on wheels that I could fit anything into.  And drive in the middle of the night if I wanted.  No more.  You’ll read why.  Now I leave on the motorcycle before the sun comes up to avoid as much traffic as possible in LA, Orange, and San Diego counties but NOT when it’s real dark because I don’t want to hit a peeled off big-rig tire tread or a handyman’s ladder on the 5.  The natural resting position for a motorcycle is laying on its side and not up on two wheels.  You defy gravity when you ride one.  It’s 213 miles to my hotel down there.  I will gas up before I cross the border so I can ride all the way to Ensenada and then all the way home on that full tank of gas.  My bike has a large gas tank.  Crossing the border going south is fast and then I take the toll road along the coast.  I can do this in 3 and a half hours. 

Going north is different.  No need to get more gas but I have to cross into the United States and that can take more time than crossing the border going south.  Now, I am on a motorcycle.  I do not have to wait in line at any of the crossings, Tijuana or Tecate.  No two to three hour, mind-grinding waits because motorcycles can “bounce” the line by going in between the cars, around the concrete barriers, around the vendors and beggars, and sometimes on the sidewalks.  I call it the “culture” of the border.  The people in the cars expect it.  I have never had anyone yell at me.  The vendors expect it too.  This dates back to when all motorcycles had air-cooled engines.  They had to keep moving to prevent the engine from over-heating and locking up.  Nowadays, most bikes have radiators or oil coolers to prevent that.  My 1986 bike?  Air-cooled.  But I have to tell you……bouncing the line going north has always made me feel like a king.  Yes, I am exposed to wind, heat, cold, fog, rain, oil and debris on the road, bugs hitting me….. but bouncing that line?  Sweet.  By the way, motorcyclists have a name for people driving protected in their cars.  Cagers.

How long to get home?  About the same.  I do leave Ensenada just as early as when I leave home and stopping for gas going south chews up a little less time than crossing the border going north, but at the most it should be maybe 15 extra minutes to get home.  There will be a little more traffic since I am going through Los Angeles county in full daylight but this is almost always on a Sunday morning.  Can’t complain.   

But I can compare.  I have friends in better shape and worse shape than me.  I’m 71 years old now and definitely feel the effects of my age.  I can complain but I have three close friends who have passed on.   I’m alive and they aren’t. 

Should we compare at all?  I’ve got an idea.  I’ll take you to my four favorite taco places in Ensenada — Los Originales, Tacos Don Zefe, La Avioneta, and Tacos Lily — and you take me to your four.  We’ll compare.  And if I lose ……well, I will actually be happy to lose, won’t I?   Adios, amigos.

September 9, 2024 Edition

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Baja California Braces for Scorching Temperatures This Weekend

Baja California’s Civil Protection authorities have issued a heat advisory for the upcoming weekend, warning of significantly higher temperatures across the region. Residents are being urged to take precautions and stay safe as the heatwave rolls in.

According to the forecast, Mexicali is set to hit a scorching 47°C, while Tijuana may reach 41°C. Other areas like Tecate, Playas de Rosarito, Ensenada, San Quintín, and San Felipe are also expected to see high temperatures, ranging from 32°C to 40°C.

Officials are advising residents to limit outdoor activities, stay hydrated, and seek cool, shaded places whenever possible. For those who must be outdoors, it’s crucial to take extra precautions like wearing lightweight clothing and carrying water.

In case of an emergency, residents should call 911 or contact local authorities.

Stay safe, Baja California! This weekend’s heat is no joke, and it’s best to be prepared.

UABC Announces the 2024 Mexico International Wine Competition

The Autonomous University of Baja California (UABC), through its School of Enology and Gastronomy, has officially announced the 2024 edition of the Mexico International Wine Competition (MIWC). The event will take place on October 29 and 30, 2024, at the Department of Informatics and Libraries on the UABC Ensenada campus.

The MIWC is set to bring together top-tier wines from around the world, where they will be evaluated by a specialized jury. The competition aims to recognize excellence in winemaking according to international oenological standards, in a setting that promotes transparency, academia, and institutional integrity.

Alejandro Jiménez Hernández, the director of the School of Enology and Gastronomy, highlighted the event’s long-standing history. Initially organized by Baja California’s winemaking sector, the competition has been under UABC’s management for 17 years. The MIWC holds the distinction of being the first international wine competition in Mexico backed by an educational institution and meets the standards of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV). Faculty and students from various university programs actively participate in the event, reflecting its academic roots.

Jiménez Hernández emphasized the expertise of the judges, who come with extensive national and international experience in the wine industry. This guarantees that the evaluation process will be both serious and objective.

UABC has also pioneered the use of a computerized wine evaluation system, developed in-house. This system ensures the results are processed and announced quickly, demonstrating the university’s commitment to transparency.

Griselda López González, the competition’s technical coordinator, provided details about the registration process, which is open to all winemaking companies interested in participating. Entries must meet specific technical requirements, such as chemical analysis, and wines will be judged in categories like white, red, rosé, sparkling, and sweet wines. López González also mentioned that the registration deadline is September 27, 2024, with entry fees varying depending on the number of samples submitted by each winery.

Winning labels in each category can earn distinctions such as Grand Gold, Gold, Silver, Bronze, and the prestigious Mexico Medal, awarded to the highest-scoring wine in its category. The total number of medals awarded cannot exceed 30% of the total entries, ensuring a selective recognition process. López González added that labels previously awarded in past editions—those with the same name, varietal, or vintage—are excluded from competing again.

UABC encourages regional, national, and international winemaking companies to take part in the MIWC. The competition not only recognizes excellence in wine production but also fosters collaboration and exchange within the industry.

For more information on registration and the competition’s guidelines, visit the official Mexico International Wine Competition website: https://concursodelvino.ens.uabc.mx.

Join Us for Wine Without Borders 2024!🍷

Mark your calendars for October 5th, 2024, when Tijuana’s Club Campestre will host the 3rd annual Wine Without Borders festival! This year, over 40 wineries from Baja California will offer tastings from more than 100 wine labels, and 25 regional restaurants will present a delicious gastronomic experience. Expect live music, guided tastings, and cooking demonstrations to elevate the festivities. Plus, Temecula, California, will be featured as the guest wine region!

Tickets are priced at $1,500 pesos, which includes access to all the fun and flavors this exciting festival has to offer. Whether you’re a wine enthusiast or a foodie, this event promises to be an unforgettable celebration of cross-border culture and cuisine.

Don’t miss out on this incredible opportunity to savor the best of Baja and beyond!

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