Ed. Note. A couple of weeks back, we ran a piece in our Cabo edition about the alleged closure of Hotel Serenidad. Well, that stirred the pot. Sandra Johnson gave us a very heated call to set the record straight: according to her, the hotel hasn’t closed. She told us they’re lawyering up and fighting to keep the property, which, she says, was legally purchased by her mother, Nancy Ugalde Gorosave. Sandra also pointed out that five generations of her family were born in Mulegé, and claims the local Ejido is trying to take their land. So, is it closed for good? Sounds like the story isn’t over just yet.
Martina’s note: Years ago, I fell into this story quite by accident. I love when the story finds me.
I have decades of fond memories of my travels into Baja Sur. The story that follows was one of the first published in my column for Baja Bound. What is special about this is that I was able to talk with the elder owner, Don Johnson. And for those of us who have just learned the hotel might be closing it can feel like the loss of an old friend. I hope you enjoy traveling back in time.
The Heydays of Hollywood Baja Style
Light splashes everywhere on the palm fronds, the surface of the swimming pool, and the drops of water falling into the fountain. I step into the magic of the Hotel Serenidad. Here on this very patio stars of the silver screen walked during the heydays of Hollywood when glamour created dreams. Those who created those dreams came to Mulegé, where they could hide from their adoring fans. It was their secret place and Don Johnson was their host. They danced here and sang here and romance was a companion of the night. Don Johnson was an icon of this era. Fate brought the opportunity for an interview.
For some reason I’m just a little starstruck. Don welcomes me and makes me feel right at home. He is a good storyteller himself and jumps right in. “I first discovered Mulegé by way of a leaky boat from San Felipe, before Highway 1 was completed in 1972. I came to investigate and to dream. Once I set foot on the shore, I never wanted to leave.” This began a love affair with the pristine gulf region and a potential for a new life. By then Leroy Center was finishing up construction on the Hotel Serenidad in 1961. Don applied and became the hotel’s boat manager.
Later Don along with investors bought the resort from Mr. Center and began living his dream. “I didn’t want to go back to the rat race. I wanted to be involved with what I had a deep interest in. I was interested in meeting people; meeting all kinds of people is like a shot in the arm to me.” Don loved the Saturday night Pig Roast. Baja pilots flew in just for the feast. What a time it must have been, no paved highway, Mulegé with dirt streets, a sleepy fishing village, deeply peaceful and star studded like the Mulegé nights.

Fate danced into Don’s life one warm evening with the breezes rustling the palm trees. Don was the host for the evening of Mariachi music for a lively quinceañera. All the young women wore beautiful dresses in swirling colors. As if in a movie, Don looked across the patio and just beyond the sparkling fountain, there was the most beautiful woman he had ever seen. It was love at first sight. He walked through the crowd, held out his hand and introduced himself. On January 12, 2014, Nancy and Don celebrated 50 years of marriage and have raised three daughters. It was evident how much he cared for all his women and he said about Nancy, “She is real, a truly wonderful person and I am the luckiest man to have lived with her so long.” Within these 50 years Don and Nancy together created an era of true Hollywood magic for people from around the world.
Today as we sit talking the sun is fiercely hot, typical of Mulegé summers. One of the waiters bring Don and I tall glasses of iced lemonade. I noted how the employees treated him with respect. Don smiles and continues his story. “After World War II, sound came to the Hollywood big screen. This was the beginning of what is called The Golden Age of Hollywood. It lasted into the late 60s.” He spun a tail of dashing heroes and beautiful starlets creating a rich fantasy. However, none was more romantic than being in Baja; flying in over the blue gulf waters, touching down on the dirt airstrip. It was a joy to welcome them all to paradise.” He asks me, “Do you know how you talk to a famous person? You be yourself and don’t try to be someone else.”
Don continued and His stories felt like he was rolling out the red carpet for them. “I had a nice young man stay for a week. He enjoyed himself so much he said he would return with his father. The day that he flew back in I saw him walking into the restaurant with a slender man. Grinning he said to me, I’d like to introduce you to my dad, Fred Astair!” Don sipped his lemonade, musing, “I saw Astair dancing in this very patio. He was a truly beautiful human being.” Don continued to spin the tales, “Now I’ll never forget the day John Denver flew in. Once John was settled, he offered to play later in the evening. Of course, I said yes! He went out to his plane, got his guitar and it was a magical night. There were just a few people staying here and they couldn’t believe I had the budget for that kind of entertainment; of course, I didn’t.” He laughed and said, “People thought I was the last of the big spenders!”
“There were so many who came here, I don’t even recall all their names.” He paused and continued, “You know they called him the “Duke.” Ah, I must admit I’d been waiting for this. I could picture the legendary John Wayne, with his distinctive walk, striding across the patio from the gulf. Don described his developing friendship. “Duke would often cruise on his 135-foot yacht, The Wild Goose, and moor near the lighthouse. He was a super person, a very special type of man. He would frequently ask Nancy and I to lunch on his yacht. On one of his visits, I told John that he would be winning the Academy Award that year. John scoffed at me; he asked how could I possibly know?” But sure enough, in 1969 Wayne won best actor in True Grit. Don reminisced of the times he and Nancy were invited to visit John in his home in Newport Beach, California. “Even though we were good friends, I would think to myself, ‘I’m just this guy with a little hotel in Mexico, how could I be finding myself here? Later after John died, I learned that every time he planned to come down for a visit, he would make sure there was plenty of Rocky Road ice cream in the freezer. It still brings tears to my eyes when I think of John remembering that it was my favorite ice cream.”
Just two weeks after this story was published, Don passed away on September 15, 2020, at the age of 94. Now the legacy he left behind might be closing. It seems this is the way of life. Beginnings and endings. It’s a reminder to fully live life creating the special memories. What calls us to return to Baja over and over is something that words cannot touch. But the heart knows and plans its next trip beyond the cities into the mystical Baja.
Another Editor’s Note (because why not): Martina’s the author of Dust in My Sandals, Tales from a Baja Traveler, and you’ll spot her book in her ad too. Go ahead, start planning that trip.