Martina Dobesh

Martina Dobesh

Martina Dobesh is a seasoned freelance journalist, storyteller, and columnist who has been chronicling the people, places, and pressing issues of Baja California for nearly four decades. Known for her vivid narratives and deep local connections, she blends travel writing with investigative reporting—whether she’s following Hollywood’s footprints in Mulegé, documenting off-grid living in Rosarito, or tracking Baja’s most urgent water challenges in her long-running Water Watch series. She’s the author of Dust in My Sandals: Tales from a Baja Traveler, a collection of true stories from years spent exploring the peninsula’s hidden corners and colorful characters.
Articles, Water, Water Watch

Blow up the Dam!

Problem Solved – Part 2 WW Editorial

Read “Part 1: Baja Faces Water Cuts” here…

Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit, and as vital to our lives as water and good bread.” Edward Abbey

While my water research has been ongoing for decades, I have focused for years on the flow of the Colorado River to Baja California. It was an especially intense time during the drought year in 2022. Water being the primary reason that we can live in comfort in this northern state makes it essential to everyone. The water issue for Baja has infinite unforeseen factors andit is extremely complex. What we don’t consider is that having water in our state along the Pacific coast is a man-made solution to advance development and agriculture. It is simple math,like a bank account. Water is deposited if it rains and we can draw it out, however we run into trouble if we require more than what has been saved. Water can be delivered by the municipalsto households and business if there is water in Lake Mead. Nature is the unknowable source of water. Nature does not give us credit to use more. Nature is no longer providing what it did 100 years ago when a few thousand Native Americans lived along it shores. Today’s focus has to untangled the power struggle over water between the seven basin states. By 2026 they have to decide how to decrease their allotments so that the river can survive.

There are those who care more about the wellbeing of the river than further developmentand city growth. The Native American tribes, environmentalists, sports fishing and recreational folks want to maintain a healthy river. Many say that draining Lake Powell would also restore the Glen Canyon ecosystem and the natural beauty of the Grand Canyon. A question might be what is a “legitimate” need for the water? There is an unhealthy loop that has been established by thoughtless development: more water brings more people and this cannot be sustained by the current river system. This massive water delivery system begins in Colorado, the headwaters of the river. Baja is the last spigot to receive its allotment.

Since my early research I have had to go further up river in order to understand how vulnerable water users are. This led me to Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon dam. This Lake serves the upper basin states. Water managers then release water allotments down to Lake Mead and the Hoover Dam. However, my most current research has exposed big problems with Glen Canyon dam. It’s old, poorly built structure threatens the ablity to deliver water downstream. The outflow pipes are filling with silt and other pipes so old and rusted that they could not hold up under high pressured water released to Lake Mead.

Research shows that a huge about of water is lost yearly from Lake Powell. In 2013, the Glen Canyon Institute commissioned a study of Fill Mead First. Hydrologists found that Lake Powell loses enough water each year to supply Nevada’s annual share of Colorado River water.In 2016, journalist Abrahm Lustgarten wrote in The New York Times that Fill Mead First offered “a solution hard to ignore.” The late Edward Abbey, author of The Monkey Wrench Gang had hischaracters plotting to blow up the dam to free the Colorado. Everyone who has read Abbeyknows he probably really wanted to blow it up as he wrote about the encroachment of theconsumer culture into America’s natural environment.

John Berggren, a regional policy manager for Western Resource Advocates reported,“Mandatory cuts and emergency water releases are “reactive.” If we are going to be able to have a sustainable Colorado River and not just be responding to crisis after crisis, we need large amounts of flexibility built into this new set of guidelines.”

The pending 2026 report calls Mexico to cut 80,000 acre-feet, or 5% of its annual allotment. This might not seem like much, but do we actually know what acre-feet means andwho or what that 5% loss impacts? There are many who know the true size and cost of this problem. Berggren said, “If the states don’t get their sh*t together it’s a huge “hot mess. If statescan’t reach a deal ahead of a 2026 deadline, the federal government can step in and make those decisions itself.

The Colorado Sun reported in August of this year, “The basin needs to be looking at the minimums,” said John Fleck, a former science journalist, “The reservoirs, the big ones Powell and Mead, are not going to recover, they’re actually going to decline to pretty scary elevation levels,” Voices for change are coming from all the sources in the know. The politicians seem to be the only positive voices suggesting it can be handled by a desal plant or two.

Desal Plants take years to build. The Department of the Interior’s Acting Assistant Secretary for Water and Science Scott Cameron said, “We cannot afford to delay. The health of the Colorado River system and the livelihoods that depend on it are relying on our ability to collaborate effectively and craft forward-thinking solutions that prioritize conservation, efficiency, and resilience.” Cameron’s thoughts could be called idealistic given the current heat in US politics. It is man’s inability to agree that has disrupted a perfectly flowing Colorado River.And it still is.

Blowing up the dam might a bit dramatic, however insiders say that retooling the dam to deal with low water levels would cost upwards to 3 billion dollars. Many say that “a more benign action would be to drain Lake Powell into Lake Mead; decommission the dam, and create a water policy that works with nature and not against it.”

Editor’s Note: For indepth coverage, see our webpage for more Water Watch reports from Martina. Also don’t miss Martina’s book signing at Tempest Trading, October 11, 11:00 to 2:00. First person receives a free book signed by the author.

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 Articles, Water, Water Watch

Baja Faces Water Cuts

High-stake Negotiations Faulter

Water Watch Editorial, Part 1

Time is running out for Baja and the seven states that are depending on the Colorado River water allotments. An agreement must be made by 2026 to cut water use. The precious supply has been in constant jeopardy for years due to poor management. The truth is how does anyone presume to manage the unknown? Somehow the politicians have made us believe that they know what they are doing. The government agencies have been constantly in debates for several years; some more hostile the than friendly.

Again, this is a reminder that whatever happens in these negotiations happens to us locally from Mexicali, Tijuana, Ensenada and the wine country. Baja has depended on 80% of its water from the Colorado that once flowed freely into the Gulf of California. If there is no agreement President Trump’s administration has the final word. We will remember this yearwhen the United States refused Baja a special request for water. The Colorado River has faced persistent drought since 2000. The old Colorado River Compact allocated basin states more water than the watershed could sustainably deliver. For decades there has been overly optimistic estimates about weather and usage.

It always amuses me when I dive into more water research to find an authority trying to sell the public that they are actually doing their best. Mr. Hamby, chairman of the Colorado River Board of California, said without all the measures that have already been tried, “the river would be in a very bad place,” It would have been more honest to inform us that we the water users would be in a very bad place. Without humanity the river will restore itself. Without water humanity cannot say the same. Of all the measures thus tried water users are one severe drought away from our 2022 crisis.  Water saving measures have included 15 dams on the main stem of the Colorado River and hundreds more on the river’s tributaries in an attempt to store water. Like a bank we have to deposit before we can withdraw. No human measures have solved the water issues. Einstein once said, “We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them.” Few talk about the true problem; over development in an arid region. 

Still the water war is ongoing behind closed doors. Lake Powell governed by the upper basin states and Lake Mead governed by the lower basin states of which Baja is included. Fact: The current level of Lake Mead is about 165 feet below what’s considered full. Lake Powell is just 48 feet above minimum level to produce power through the turbines. Conservation groups are calling for changes to the management of Lake Powell after the discovery of damaged plumbing within the Glen Canyon dam.

Why is Lake Powell important to Mexico? If the problem is not fixed or the water drops too low, the river cannot flow through Glen Canyon dam to be stored in Lake Mead for our allotment. Eric Balken, executive director of the Glen Canyon Institute said, “I think it’s really important for people to recognize how much of a threat this is to our water delivery system. This is a really big infrastructure problem. Projections for the end of water year 2025 and into 2026 show continued low levels, with the possibility of falling below the minimum power pool elevation by late 2026.  The reservoirs’ water levels have only slightly recovered from our 2022drought, when they reached historic lows. John Berggren, a regional policy manager for Western Resource Advocates said, “We need to be thinking closely about the risks of a very bad year and thinking about what we’re going to do in the case of a very, very bad year.” As of this writing the Glenn Canyon dam has not been repaired.

Editor’s Note: Martina is a freelance journalist who has been reporting on the water issues facing Baja since 2007. Many years of Water Watch articles have been archived and found on our website, ggnorth.com

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 Articles, Rosarito

Dreaming off the Grid, A Family takes the Leap, Part 2

By Martina Dobesh


Since the family found water on their property, they went to work creating their first garden. It
was a steep learning curve. During the dry season, the garden became a virtual foodie-heaven for the
wild critters and the neighbor’s cows. Annel shared, “We had worked so hard and were so proud of our
flourishing first garden. We admired it as we drove passed it into town.” She stops and gulps, “But when
we returned the garden was gone! The cows had destroyed it.” Annel moaned, “I have never been so
devastated in my entire life.” This followed with battling the rabbits and mice. If you are committed to
living in harmony with the land that sustains you, poison is not the first thing you want to reach for.
Poison disrupts nature in ways rarely thought about in urban communities. When a mouse or rat has
just eaten a poison pellet, it becomes a death meal for an owl or hawk. When your water comes from
ancient aquifers you become very careful about what you put in the soil.
For power Drew had two small solar panels and a couple of batteries. But he wanted something
more adequate. Living off the grid doesn’t mean what it used to in the old days. Now there is the
worldwide web and invisible information flying through the air. Drew said, “I went to work online to find
how to build a solar system large enough for our needs.” He grinned, “It turned out to be really easy just
following the directions. But I did blow out the battery when I first connected everything!” He added,
“One thing you have to learn when you live so away from the city; you can’t just jump in the car make a
quick run into town. You must begin to think differently. There has been a lot of trial and error.”
Of the three most important things for living, water, power and what to do with the poop.
Usually, people don’t need to know what to do with “it.” However, off the grid “it” can’t be overlooked.
Our intrepid family bypassed the old fragrant outhouse method. They chose a composting toilet that is
in harmony with nature, preserve water, and prevent water pollution.
Sasha, now 12 is a respected working member of the family and is hands-on learning the family
business. She attends a five-day online school with changing subjects; sketching, painting, marketing,
first aid, science, public speaking, and entrepreneurship. Good old fashion outdoor fun is known to be
the healthiest activity for the young. Sasha thrives in Mother Nature’s school with her friends. Bright
minds explore the sunrises and sunsets, the moon in its cycles, the star filled night skies and rainbows.
This family has already stretched the boundaries together, but they are not done dreaming.
Currently, they have returned to their earlier success story. Their outdoor kitchen, Alumina Sagrada
translated Sacred Alchemy is open. Drew explained. “We always wanted to bring people back to the
table to share a meal.” The menu features home-crafted meals. Drew looked at his wife, “Annel is the
visionary and I have crazy ideas. We are being called to follow them.” Annel smiled, “We have merged
our goals with our dreams.”
info@alquimiasagradabaja.com
AlquimiaSagradabaja.com

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Family
 Articles, Rosarito

Dreaming off the Grid A Family Takes the Leap, Part I of 2

June fog was just burning off the coast when I pulled into Tempest Traders just south of Rosarito. I’ve long been wanting to write about this family’s story as they are building a life off the grid. This idea has become a popular topic of late. Of course, here in Baja there are many original families who have been living for decades in the wilderness on ranchos with no conveniences. I’m thinking as I get out of the car that a lack of conveniences is not what you would call an American dream. In this age of instant living everything is within a touch of the finger tips. What would inspire a family to make this kind of move? Drew, Annel and Sasha Mattews greeted me with warm hugs and we took seats in the shade.

Drew started with, “We had no idea of moving to Baja, let alone living off grid. But something happened in 2016 and we just knew that we were going to make a move. Our dream had started out wanting to travel.” But on one of their visits to Annel’s parent’s home in Rosarito they were bitten by the Baja Bug. Sometimes it takes a while to realize it. They were doing quite well in North County San Diego. Annel and Drew’s Kitchen was a very popular place at the weekend Farmers Market. Drew had graduated from a culinary school in upstate New York and it aligned perfectly with Annel’s background as she came from the family’s restaurant business. Coming together they created a fresh farm to table menu, as well as a very successful catering business for outdoor events. Annel added about the leaving, “It was the toughest decision we ever made as a family. Drew quipped, “Friends and family were really concerned about our mental health.”

#Rainbow

It became clear they wanted a home outside of Rosarito. With no effort they found just the place in La Misión. It was perfect for continuing their culinary best. The couple created home delivery service to the communities. Later they opened a retreat center following the shamanic practice of the sweat lodge and the lovely Cacao ceremony. (link here). While inviting people into their retreat center a new dream arose to own land. Twelve acres in the pristine hills and a 1960 vintage travel trailer became their getaway place. Drew joked, “A tiny space and big land.” When they lost the lease on their home it forced them into looking at the idea of living permanently off the beaten path. Often times committing to one’s long held dreams comes with a period of sacrifice.

I asked, “What are the first most important things you had to focus on?” Drew nodded, “Water, power, and where the waste goes.” This is rarely considered when purchasing a home in an urban setting. We tend to take for granted that these very important things are provided. Annel giggles about the waste, “No one is interested in knowing where “it” goes.” We all laughed, and a lusty riff began amongst us adding jokes to where “it” went and what to do with “it.”  Yep, living off the grid means you have to be responsible for “it.”

The first need is water. Drew explained, “The camper has a water pump, shower and a hot water heater for a little comfort.” Water, the most important element in life is answered by the water trucks. Their water is hauled from a local well and fills the large storage tanks. Kumiai neighbors came to locate well sites on their property. Using willow branches for dousing they found several well drilling opportunities. Very good luck.

Editor’s Note: Martina is a freelance journalist and storyteller. She has been gathering stories of Baja California for nearly 40 years and has written many of them in her book, Dust in My Sandals, Tales from a Baja Traveler. See our ad and order now!

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La Lagunita, Ensenada—Once a thriving coastal wetland, now showing troubling signs of drought.
 Water, Water Watch

Two Rivers One Problem Secrets Behind Closed Doors

Water Watch Editorial

Lake Mead is dropping again and this is a reminder that we are fast approaching 2026. Freelance reporters with boots on the ground say that the water levels have dropped ten feet in the last couple of weeks. There is no rain in sight until next winter. To refresh the memories of those following the water crisis in 2022, it is important to remember that Baja receives 80% of its water from the Colorado River stored in Lake Mead. The 100-year-old agreement expires in five short months. And at this time the seven Basin States and Mexico have not reached anagreement. For months the different parties have met in secret behind closed doors. The talks have not been made public. It is imperative water distribution be understood by all users which includes we who live in Baja California. It is good to be aware during a drought period that the United States can reduce deliveries to Mexico. There definitely will be cuts in the 2026 new agreement.

In 2019 a Drought Contingency Plans was established between the United States and Mexico following the 1944 Water Treaty in the Utilization of Waters of the Colorado and Tijuana Rivers and of the Rio Grande. Most recently we heard that President Trump was demanding water from Mexico’s Rio Grande which could not be provided due Mexico’s own water problems. It seems this story has disappeared from the media because of wars in the Middle East. We do not know if the second river issue has been resolved, however the Rio Grande situation is a different story and does not affect us here in Baja at this time.

Current information about the problems heading into 2026 is not found in mainstream media. It takes some research. However, what does appear in the media is their blaming the dwindling river water on climate change. This distracts from the true problem; over population in desert communities fueled by the fact that water has become a commodity bought and sold on Wall Street. In late 2020 Water Futures trading opened a new gambit for privatization. Why is this an issue? It takes the control out of the people’s hands and gives it to people who are not accountable. It has been stated that this change “will threaten our human right to clean, affordable water.”

Here are the three things to watch for as the 2026 new agreement goes into place:

  1. Water futures allow farmers, utilities, and other water users to hedge against price fluctuations and ensure a supply of water at a predetermined cost. 
  2. Investors can now participate in the water market, creating a new avenue for investment and potentially influencing water pricing and allocation. 
  3. Some experts and organizations raise concerns about the commodification of water, fearing it could lead to increased water scarcity and exacerbate inequalities in water access. 
Map of the Colorado River basin

The CME Group in July 2021 explained how the Water Futures market works. In their overview they stated, “With nearly two-thirds of the world’s population expected to face water shortages by 2025, water scarcity presents a growing climate-related risk for business and communities around the world. Particularly in the state of California.” California is the largest water user of all the Lower Basin states and Mexico facing the 2026 new allocations.

In a ludicrous article, A New Future for Water, in the June 3, 2025 Voice of San Diego, written byScott Lewis stated, “San Diego country has abundant water.” Sound like good news? Not if you look more deeply into where their water comes from. Southern California receives 60% of its water from the Colorado River. Less than a quarter of the water is pulled from each the Owens River Valley and Sacramento/ San Joaquin River Delta. The amount is governed by winter snow pack and the pipelines from the north. Actual water on site is less than a quarter of the reserves from desal and aquifers. The damage to the aquifers is for another story. However, in an agreement with the Water Authority they will be allowed to sell water out of state. The question appears to be is this a “futures trading” with Colorado River water? Will California “speculate” the future prices to sell water to the dry Basin states and Mexico?

The “traders” have little concern about the effect of this trading on you and me. Development is their aim and we see is everywhere happening at a frenzied pace. To developers and governments sustainability is a word never to be spoken. Even in the face of the facts of decades of warnings, about water becoming the major concern like oil was to the 21st century. Water is now being played and will one day be more valuable than gold. Can we trust political transparency that water will actually be delivered to us at a price we can afford? One freelance reporter stated that we probably won’t see the results of this year’s dry winter until next summer. Development rushes on while the new desal plant in Rosarito is breaking ground, one desal plant in the future is a pipe-dream savior.

In conclusion, scientists have provided a rare, uncomfortable dose of certainty to Colorado River talks: “The planet is getting warmer, the Colorado River is losing water, and cutbacks to water demand are unavoidably necessary.” Development cannot be sustained without water. We might need more than hope for Mother Nature’s good intentions to provide and the one new desal plant to sustain Baja’s future. The Water Future speculation will be based on who has the water and how much will it cost.

Editor’s Note: Martina is a freelance writer who has been tracking Baja’s water issues since 2005. See all the back issues ggnorth.com/category/water-watch and Martina is the author of Dust in My Sandals, Tales from a Baja Traveler. Order today!

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 History

Hotel Serenidad: Not Gone, Not Forgotten

Ed. Note. A couple of weeks back, we ran a piece in our Cabo edition about the alleged closure of Hotel Serenidad. Well, that stirred the pot. Sandra Johnson gave us a very heated call to set the record straight: according to her, the hotel hasn’t closed. She told us they’re lawyering up and fighting to keep the property, which, she says, was legally purchased by her mother, Nancy Ugalde Gorosave. Sandra also pointed out that five generations of her family were born in Mulegé, and claims the local Ejido is trying to take their land. So, is it closed for good? Sounds like the story isn’t over just yet.

Martina’s note: Years ago, I fell into this story quite by accident. I love when the story finds me.
I have decades of fond memories of my travels into Baja Sur. The story that follows was one of the first published in my column for Baja Bound. What is special about this is that I was able to talk with the elder owner, Don Johnson. And for those of us who have just learned the hotel might be closing it can feel like the loss of an old friend. I hope you enjoy traveling back in time.

The Heydays of Hollywood Baja Style

Light splashes everywhere on the palm fronds, the surface of the swimming pool, and the drops of water falling into the fountain. I step into the magic of the Hotel Serenidad. Here on this very patio stars of the silver screen walked during the heydays of Hollywood when glamour created dreams. Those who created those dreams came to Mulegé, where they could hide from their adoring fans. It was their secret place and Don Johnson was their host. They danced here and sang here and romance was a companion of the night. Don Johnson was an icon of this era. Fate brought the opportunity for an interview.

For some reason I’m just a little starstruck. Don welcomes me and makes me feel right at home. He is a good storyteller himself and jumps right in. “I first discovered Mulegé by way of a leaky boat from San Felipe, before Highway 1 was completed in 1972. I came to investigate and to dream. Once I set foot on the shore, I never wanted to leave.” This began a love affair with the pristine gulf region and a potential for a new life. By then Leroy Center was finishing up construction on the Hotel Serenidad in 1961. Don applied and became the hotel’s boat manager.

Later Don along with investors bought the resort from Mr. Center and began living his dream. “I didn’t want to go back to the rat race. I wanted to be involved with what I had a deep interest in. I was interested in meeting people; meeting all kinds of people is like a shot in the arm to me.” Don loved the Saturday night Pig Roast. Baja pilots flew in just for the feast. What a time it must have been, no paved highway, Mulegé with dirt streets, a sleepy fishing village, deeply peaceful and star studded like the Mulegé nights. 

Don Johnson

Fate danced into Don’s life one warm evening with the breezes rustling the palm trees. Don was the host for the evening of Mariachi music for a lively quinceañera. All the young women wore beautiful dresses in swirling colors. As if in a movie, Don looked across the patio and just beyond the sparkling fountain, there was the most beautiful woman he had ever seen. It was love at first sight. He walked through the crowd, held out his hand and introduced himself. On January 12, 2014, Nancy and Don celebrated 50 years of marriage and have raised three daughters. It was evident how much he cared for all his women and he said about Nancy, “She is real, a truly wonderful person and I am the luckiest man to have lived with her so long.” Within these 50 years Don and Nancy together created an era of true Hollywood magic for people from around the world.

Today as we sit talking the sun is fiercely hot, typical of Mulegé summers. One of the waiters bring Don and I tall glasses of iced lemonade. I noted how the employees treated him with respect. Don smiles and continues his story. “After World War II, sound came to the Hollywood big screen. This was the beginning of what is called The Golden Age of Hollywood. It lasted into the late 60s.” He spun a tail of dashing heroes and beautiful starlets creating a rich fantasy. However, none was more romantic than being in Baja; flying in over the blue gulf waters, touching down on the dirt airstrip. It was a joy to welcome them all to paradise.” He asks me, “Do you know how you talk to a famous person? You be yourself and don’t try to be someone else.”

Don continued and His stories felt like he was rolling out the red carpet for them. “I had a nice young man stay for a week. He enjoyed himself so much he said he would return with his father. The day that he flew back in I saw him walking into the restaurant with a slender man. Grinning he said to me, I’d like to introduce you to my dad, Fred Astair!” Don sipped his lemonade, musing, “I saw Astair dancing in this very patio. He was a truly beautiful human being.” Don continued to spin the tales, “Now I’ll never forget the day John Denver flew in. Once John was settled, he offered to play later in the evening. Of course, I said yes! He went out to his plane, got his guitar and it was a magical night. There were just a few people staying here and they couldn’t believe I had the budget for that kind of entertainment; of course, I didn’t.” He laughed and said, “People thought I was the last of the big spenders!”

“There were so many who came here, I don’t even recall all their names.” He paused and continued, “You know they called him the “Duke.” Ah, I must admit I’d been waiting for this. I could picture the legendary John Wayne, with his distinctive walk, striding across the patio from the gulf. Don described his developing friendship. “Duke would often cruise on his 135-foot yacht, The Wild Goose, and moor near the lighthouse. He was a super person, a very special type of man. He would frequently ask Nancy and I to lunch on his yacht. On one of his visits, I told John that he would be winning the Academy Award that year. John scoffed at me; he asked how could I possibly know?” But sure enough, in 1969 Wayne won best actor in True Grit. Don reminisced of the times he and Nancy were invited to visit John in his home in Newport Beach, California. “Even though we were good friends, I would think to myself, ‘I’m just this guy with a little hotel in Mexico, how could I be finding myself here? Later after John died, I learned that every time he planned to come down for a visit, he would make sure there was plenty of Rocky Road ice cream in the freezer. It still brings tears to my eyes when I think of John remembering that it was my favorite ice cream.”

Just two weeks after this story was published, Don passed away on September 15, 2020, at the age of 94. Now the legacy he left behind might be closing. It seems this is the way of life. Beginnings and endings. It’s a reminder to fully live life creating the special memories. What calls us to return to Baja over and over is something that words cannot touch. But the heart knows and plans its next trip beyond the cities into the mystical Baja.

Another Editor’s Note (because why not): Martina’s the author of Dust in My Sandals, Tales from a Baja Traveler, and you’ll spot her book in her ad too. Go ahead, start planning that trip.

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 Articles, Ensenada, Nature, Wine

Easter in the Wine Country

Venture off the Beaten Path

For decades Baja California has been known as a destination for Spring breakers. But this image has changed over the years. There is a new look and presence to be enjoyed, and Baja has much more than the margarita to sample. This is found by the true traveler as their curiosity takes them off the beaten path. Surprises await. This Easter season is celebrated in many different ways in Baja and one of those is a good old fashion Easter egg hunt. With a short drive through sleeping grape vines, orange groves and hidden in the hills of the Guadalupe Valley is the En’Kanto winery. Each year they host a community egg hunt. Part of the festival includes a visit to their very special heritage chickens. Baja is one of the very few purebred chicken breeding farms. These classy hens are known for their rainbow eggs. 

There is a long history of how the egg became part of a holy tradition we know as Easter today. The egg is an ancient symbol of new life and it has been associated with Pagan festivals celebrating spring. It is said that the tradition of decorating and coloring eggs dates back to at least the 13th century. The first hunt was recorded in the 16th century in Germany.  Martin Luther, a Protestant leader for the Lutheran church, introduced the egg symbolizing life and resurrection. And now children around the world are delighted when they find special eggs hidden in the grass.

Tom and Eva invited me out to meet their good friend, Cassie. Forgive the pun, but this is how the story was hatched. It all started when Cassie wanted to have fresh eggs for breakfast. The vineyard and casita rentals were surround by plenty of beautiful landscaping and room for a chicken coop. Little did anyone know at the time that they would one day have a purebred farm in Baja California. 

Cassie and I met at the expanded enclosure. I learned right away that you have to have a sense of humor to be a “Poulterer.” Cassie just grinned and said, “We have some pretty funny titles; Chief Hen’Kanto Officer CHO, La Cluckadora and Madam Hatch-a-lot.” This is seriously funny way of life. She has a T-shirt that reads, “I might look like I’m listening to you, but in my head, I’m thinking about getting more Chickens.” We are both laughing by the end of the list. We started with the basics. It takes a rooster and a hen and the right set of factors for purebred birds. We stepped inside the brooding grounds; I watched for poop hidden the hay. There was a cacophony of clucking like a barnyard symphony and birds were running everywhere. But these were not ordinary chickens, these were beyond the idea of chicken. It was a funny, wildly beautiful display of bird life. The plumage of the different breeds was like a moving art show, from orange, rusty red and iridescent black of the studly rooster to the cream and white hen with the jazzy feathered hat and skinny legs reminiscent of Dr Suess’ little “Things” characters. 

Cassie pointed out how the hay was laid out, “Actually we just throw in a bale of hay and they do all the work. They love to pick at it and they spread it everywhere.” She opened an inner door and pointed out how they roost at night. The feeding is simple, but Cassie exclaimed, “Oh the feed has gone sky high! It has doubled in price!” The feeders themselves are uniquely created to keep the mice out of the grain. Cassie knew all of her birds and the future pairings that would go on to create new chicks. But she was worried, “There are way too many roosters now and this is a problem as you can imagine.” When the breeding begins there is a special place where one lucky rooster is put in separately with eight or nine hens of his breed. Otherwise, there will be “mut” a mixed breed. She explains, “This is just like dog breeding to get the specialty breeds; it is the same with chickens for their rainbow eggs, plumage displays, dual purpose, or just for being cute.”

She continued, “I didn’t want to have roosters because they start crowing at four in the morning and I didn’t want them to disturb the guests staying in the casitas.” One thing led to another, and she admitted, “People start to get addicted.” There is a natural desire to begin to breed them she said, “It’s called Chicken Math.” This opens up a whole new experience and it is no longer just about the eggs. It creates a different way of life. The Poulterer begins to keep all the breeding schedules in their heads and to a layperson it is mind boggling. 

When the hens begin to lay, Cassie collects 22 fertilized eggs for the incubator. It takes 21 days to hatch, however on the 18th day the eggs need to go into “lockdown” with higher humidity in the incubator. They no longer rotate hourly and must be removed and placed under the heat lamp. This allows more space for them when they hatch.  Recently Cassie purchased a second incubator and is deciding on a third one.  “Each one will be in process of hatching in 21 days so every week you have little chicks.” On top of this, there is the schedule for breeding to coincide with the batches leaving the incubators. “Chicken Math” is ongoing in Cassie’s head all the time. She explained, is a joke among backyard chicken-keepers.  It means you start with 4 or 6 chickens and before you know it you have 50!”

“There are very few sources for purebred chicks here in Baja, and now we can begin to sell them. Some people love a special breed for pets, but there is also the opportunity of having eggs. There is a new Polish breed I have coming, and people are going to love them!” Laughing, “Yes, I am addicted!” Cassie hopes there will be the first batch of little chicks for April. What a fun Easter gift this can be.

There is so much here to enjoy all year around. The natural landscaping features massive granite boulders that are millions of years old and were left here like ancient art forms. The vineyard is always a wonder to behold in its different stages of growth. In Spring the first tiny leaves are seen pushing out of what looks like dry dead wood.  In the fall the vines are heavy with grapes and the citrus groves are lush with fruit. Old tree growth provides lovely setting to enjoy wine tasting. The outdoor restaurant serves up a delicious array of homecooked delights as well as those maintaining a personal diet. And yes! You can experience eating an omelet made with fresh eggs from the classy hens. This is a real gem off the beaten path. If you visit, be sure and tell them that Martina sent you. Open Friday through Sunday, www.enkanto.mx

Editor’s Note: Martina is a freelance writer, author and columnist for Baja Bound where this story first appeared. Visit the Baja StoryTeller and read many more of her years of travel stories. See our aid and order a copy today.

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 Baja Norte, Water, Water Watch

What Happens Up River, Happens Here

Water Wars – Water Watch Update Series

Is it really climate change causing Baja California’s water issue? A truth lies beneath the blaming of Mother Nature for the water predicament facing seven US states and Mexico. There has been for a number of years a water-war going on behind closed doors. Not with guns of course, but legal infighting about who get the greater allotment of water from the Colorado River. In fact, it is still much like the old fashion range wars between cattlemen and farmers. Who wins a war? Who decides who wins? All this has to be decided by 2026.

What is the truth? To find out, research sends us all the way back to 1869, and John Wesley Powell, a small bearded man who lost his right arm at Shiloh. He didn’t let his loss inconvenience his desire to discover the truth. He set out with six men and two boats to take a first-hand look into the canyons where the mighty Colorado River ran. It was the first trip of its kind by the European settlers. Of course, the first Paleo-Indians knew this wild arid land because it had been their home for 13,000 years. 

It was Powell who reported what he saw, “an arid region and a land of scarcity.” He made it his life’s work to report, “You have to plan on the scarcity, not on the abundance.” He advocated strict water resource conservation. In 1878 he published Report on the Lands of the Arid Regions of the United States. His book suggested it made more sense to draw state boundaries according to watershed areas. His brilliant ideas became under attack by politicians, scientists, railroad corporations, and a belief that the United States was ordained by God to move westward. This ideology was created by John O’Sullivan and called The Manifest Destiny. There was also included a variety of measures designed to remove or destroy the native population. 

 Powell discouraged the practice of dividing government land into arbitrary rectangular plots for settlement, arguing that this technique ran the risk of concentrating valuable water resources on single plots. In developing the United States, Powell proposed that settlements consist of cooperative communities, similar to those of the Mormons, Pueblos, and Hispanic New Mexicans. This communal lifestyle would allow groups to pool the capital for the irrigation projects necessary to draw water from large rivers. For all his efforts, John Powell, lost even more favor from the American public and vested commercial interests. This conflict made his plans for the scientifically managed developament of the West politically impossible. As a result, Powell’s ideas went generally disregarded with the Homestead Act, large-scale damming projects and water rights up for grabs. He resigned from the USGS in 1894. 

 Mexican nationals who have lived in Baja for generation have seen changes in weather. Many of us who immigrated decades ago have also seen the changes. However, are these weather changes the actual cause of the dwindling water concerns we are facing today? John Powell clearly pointed out that the arid land had to be treated wisely. It would be interesting to know what he would say about the use of his name on Glen Canyon’s, Lake Powell Reservoir, and the urban sprawl in the metropolitan areas of all seven Basin States. If Mr. Powell was still alive, he would probably shake his head thinking that bringing the water to the people simply lacks insight into human nature.

Hidden in our own Gringo Gazette was a warning, February 10, Que Pasa in Baja; Scientist from the Center for Scientific Research, reported that “Ensenada is experiencing its driest start to the rainy season since 1950. Without significant rainfall in February and March, a critical situation is anticipated. If the trend continues in the upcoming months, we could face severe water shortages in the summer.” And as of this writing we have only had two spats of rain that carried little hope. The record keepers here tell us it is the driest since 1895. And according to the US Drought Monitor, 24.5 million California residents live in this drought area. 

It can be safely suggested that concerns about water allotments are not about climate change. There has been a fundamental error made which Powell foresaw. Of course, no rain and snow fall stress the system, which should mean government cut backs. As Powell pointed out development should not be focused on hoped for abundance. The problem is overdevelopment of arid lands. These lands were never meant to maintain alfalfa for cows, almond groves, mega agriculture and landscaping to name just a few of the mega users. One question to asked; Can consistent migration west with its foreseeable development be truly sustainable? As has been written, “More water means more people,” and it is simply a non-sustainable loop. 

During 2025 there are several important water issues to keep in mind. Baja receives 80% of its water from the Colorado River allotments, however this has already been reduced by approximately 263 million cubic meters, roughly two trillion gallons. Governor Pilar Ávila is the first Baja governor to address this reliance on the Colorado water. But the state is already entering a severe drought pattern. 

The second issue to keep an eye on is what is happening to the north and the political climate. This year is the last opportunity for all the seven states and Mexico to be self-governing in the way they propose to reduce the allotments. For if the states cannot come to an agreement and go to court, the final decisions will fall into Federal hands. The US government was given more power by a recent Supreme court case, “Texas vs New Mexico, if the states cannot come to an agreement, the government has the right to intervene. Tom Buschatzke, Arizona’s top water negotiator, stressed, “I think each state honestly does not want to be in a courtroom rolling the dice regarding how a judge might rule.” We will see how the US treats Mexico’s water rights. Keeping in mind that the massive damming along the river course, stole from Mexico 75 miles of the beautiful Colorado River which use to run into the Gulf of California. 

Water leaders said they do not expect Donald Trump’s return to the White House to shake up the Colorado River negotiation process. However, the president did admit that it would be different than the last administration. Some water users and onlookers say the new administration could impact the future of the river in other ways. What happens up river happens to us. We are all connected by our need for water.

References:

  • drought.gov/states/california
  • KUNC NPR News, Colorado Stories
  • Memorandum from the Secretary of the Interior
  • Arnold & Porter
  • National Park Service
  • Gringo Gazette

Editor’s Note: Martina is a freelance writer, author and columnist for Baja Bound. She has a passion to keep updated on current affairs concerning Baja’s water future. Get her book from Amazon: Dust in my Sandals, Tales from a Baja Travel. It’s time to plan your Baja Adventure! Put on your sandals and visit places you’ve never been.

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 Water, Water Watch

Is Water a Human Right or a Commodity?

Part of our Water Watch Report Series

Eric Faulken the executive director of the Glen Canyon Institute said, “One or two dry winters can put our water supply in a crisis mode like we experienced in 2022, and that is the real story.” But heavy winter rain and snowfall of 2023 bailed us out of a very dire situation temporarily. However, we watched much of the precious liquid flow right out into the ocean. Never the less it did help wells and reservoirs for a time. As a reminder, Baja’s north coastal region receives 80% of its water requirements from the Colorado River.  Baja relies on the water allotments from the US each year. Seven states including California also draw their allotments from these waters. These next two years are critical because the 1922 River Compact Agreement expires, which has protected our rights under the compact.  Heated negotiation has been ongoing for a number of years. The question is who gets what amount of the lifesaving liquid under the new compact in 2026? In reality it would take six consecutive wet winters to fill the Lake Powell and Lake Mead reservoirs. At the moment the Bureau of Reclamation (USBR,) lives in hope of good winters, and its forecasted allotments are based on this hope that nature will provide for our over consumption. 

 Zack Frankly the executive director of the Utah Rivers Council said, “We are playing with loaded dice. The big winter of 2023 created the misconception that Reservoir levels were going to rebound. But America’s two largest reservoirs are only about 37% full. That is like winning the lottery and still being bankrupt. The Bureau of Reclamation reports that six states and Baja will be under Tier One water shortage, which will be the least severe designation. The State of California is exempt. California does not have to comply until the water crisis enters a tier three condition. A number of conservation groups say that the Bureau keeps overestimating its predictions of its future flows. Yet the Bureau reported that Lake Mead has dropped 15 feet as of July 2024.  To put it into perspective, the level of Lake Mead as of this writing, is just 8 feet above the severe drought levels in July 2022. Hope might not be the best way to prepare for the future.

The Colorado runs through a vast desert on its way to the Gulf of California, however 75 miles of the once mighty river no longer makes it into Baja California. When the River Compact was created in 1922, evaporation loss was not factored. Lake Mead was full and population was very small. It is certainly a major factor today because of the exploding population in the west.  The Bureau now estimates a whopping 10% lost. The allotments must be corrected for the new compact in 2026. These negotiations which will affect 40 million people, agriculture, and Baja California.  The USBR said the lower Basin States plus Baja had finally agreed, but now with this new report of a substantial evaporation loss before allotments, it is back to the negotiations. Upper basin states can draw right from the river, so the fight is that the losses fall to the lower basin states. The lower Basin believes everyone should share equally. 

The US federal government wants the states to agree on one proposal, rather than two, before it installs any new Colorado River water rules. States say they’re working towards consensus, but signs of progress have been few and far between. While the next set of rules won’t go into effect until 2026, the federal government wants to get the ball rolling as soon as possible. The Biden Administration is asking states to agree on one proposal before the end of 2024. Jim Lochhead, one of Colorado’s top water negotiators said, “I think the fundamental lesson is that we’re much better off controlling our own destiny than putting our future in the hands of nine justices on the United States Supreme Court who don’t understand Western water law, and who don’t understand life in the West,” 

 What might not be known by US tax payers is that the states of Arizona, California, Nevada and Baja have been paid to reduce their water usage.  The federal government set aside $4 Billion for Colorado River work, and a portion of that has been directed specifically at programs that help farmers to reduce their water use. The agreement, calls for the federal government to pay about $1.2 billion to irrigation districts, cities and Native American tribes in the three states, if they temporarily use less water. Since 2021 Mexico has been paid $65 million dollars in compensation. 

Water is a “Hot Commodity.” The Colorado River is one of the most valuable resources in the United States. Wall Street sees dollar signs in a future drought crisis, as there are ways ready to make money from the misfortune of others. Water wasn’t always thought of as a commodity that could be bought and sold. Water was at one time considered a human right. The 1992 Dublin Principles declared water an “economic good” for the first time and stated that trading water as a commodity is the most efficient means of managing scarce water resources. However, this directly threatens the fundamental notion that water is a human right, “to be available to all people regardless of their income or economic ability.” 

There are literally billions of dollars at stake and Wall Street sees what was actually seen 20 years ago, that water would become the new oil in the 21st century. They are the largest land owner in the Grand Valley, Colorado which gives them river water rights. If Wall Street is betting that there will be another drought on its way, and is backing their speculation with millions of dollars, it may be wise to stay informed. 

References:

~ Gringo Gazette:, Water Watch Series begins: ggnorth.com/2021/08/august-16-2021-edition

~ Binational Waters  

~ Flow: For the Love of Water- Can you imagine the power of a Water Cartel? Melissa Sevigny, July, 2024

~ KUNC, Western Water News, Here’s what you need to know, Alex Hager, May 9, 2024 

~ The New York Times: Colorado River States Are, Christopher Flavelle, January, 2024

~ Mojo Adventures Youtube channel

Editor’s Note: Martina has researched and authored 13 Water Watch articles since 2021. She is a columnist for Baja Bound as the Baja StoryTeller and is the author of Dust in My Sandals, Tales from a Baja Traveler in which she shares decades of her travels up and down the peninsula. See our ad and order today for a gift that keeps on giving.

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 Articles, Breaking News, Water, Water Watch

A Stark Warning of Water Cuts: A Water Watch Editorial

It seems an act of sheer folly to write about staying vigilant in our water usage after two relatively wet winters here in Baja California. It would seem the populus has fallen under a spell which suggests there is no longer a water issue in our future. But finally, a trickle of information was buried in the May 6th issue of this paper in the Que Pasa in Baja?, entitled “Baja California Faces Severe Colorado River Water Cuts.” It was only a matter of time for the alarm about water to be raised once again. The concern about water and the lack of it was never resolved; it just went underground with the rain of the last wet winters.

The Permanent Forum on Binational Waters issued the stark warning. “The upcoming cut in Colorado River water allocation to Mexico in 2024 will exceed the annual water usage of all Baja California cities reliant on this source.” This will mean about a 33% cut. It went on to say that the 2024 reductions of Baja’s primary water source have been severe, “the most severe will be in 2025, when a new administration is in charge.” This refers to the US elections in November. The 1944 Treaty protecting Colorado River water to Baja will expire in 2026. Yet the push for “progress” is in full gear around the state.
In the January 15th Gringo Gazette front page article sighted that the new governor, Marina Pila, attended the World Economic Forum in Switzerland where she stated that her primary goal was to showcase Baja California as “an ideal investment destination.” There was a long list of issues to be addressed such as economic development, security and sustainability. Last year the new governor announced her pet mega project for the wine country.  An “artificial town” with the theme of a medieval Italian village as a residential community and tourist complex with shops and lodging. 

The June 3rd paper had headlines of a “premier entertainment hub, boasting a capacity of 10,000 people for top-tier events,” including 300 bathrooms. How they can claim to be “eco-friendly” is absurd. June 14th Gringo Gazette was filled with articles promising happy tourist paradise and more jobs. One such is set to “Transform Ensenada’s Port Area,” and a ferry service from Ensenada to San Diego is expected in the next five months. Claiming to “boost” Baja’s image is touted as the “Punta Piedra’s New Misión Project.” It will feature 70 residences with “advanced technology and water-saving systems.” All of this is in alignment with the government’s blessings to have Baja California “attracting capital to the state.” It should be asked who is promising abundant water flowing for the generations of investors?  

Since I began investigating this issue over the last two decades it has become obvious to me that people’s minds tend to default to the idea that building desal plants will be our savior. Always after receiving these disturbing water facts there is always a casual wave of the hand, “Well, build a desal plant.” And sure enough, the July 1st front-page article by Archer Ingram, Rosarito’s New Desalination Plant Gets Green Light. I was amused by the subtitle, “if its ever completed” which is probably close to the truth. Ingram did a good job giving us all the ins and outs of the politics and costs of building it to a tune of half a billion dollars. But not addressed was the cost of operation and increased prices to the users. It wasn’t stated how long it would take to build the plant after all the talking stops. Given the timely nature of Rosarito’s water needs for development it is an important question. Will there be enough water to build it? This one plant would not furnish Rosarito’s growing needs and the impact on the ocean is a very real issue.

Oliver Quintero, Publisher of the Gringo Gazette, stated the land had already been purchased years ago for the first failed project which ended in litigation, the site is in Ejido Mazatlán, right next to the CFE thermoelectrical plant.

Water cuts are here. Water is our most precious thing we have. We waste a lot of it. Learning to conserve is wise for any future planning. To check out the water facts and history go to the Gringo Gazette webpage, ggnorth.com. Scroll down to August 16 and 30, 2021 where the Water Watch series begins.  Be sure and check out the YouTube channel Mojo Adventures for current boots-on-the-ground updates on the Colorado River as we head into 2026.

Editor’s Note: Martina is a freelance writer and journalist. She is the creator of the Water Watch series as a community service. She is the author of Dust in My Sandals, Tales from a Baja Traveler. See our ad and dive into her true adventures and wonders of Baja California.

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