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Columns, Tecate, What Mexico Has Taught Me

I Crossed for Tacos and Found Heartbreak Instead

What Mexico Has Taught Me: Pure Horror!!!

BY THE UNKNOWN GRINGO

I’m on a short leash.  I’m helping a friend who is in terrible shape as he navigates what is left of his life.  I’ve done this before, first with my mother and then my father.  So now I often can’t go to Ensenada for even two or three nights, let alone fly anywhere, but only enjoy five to six hours at the border in Tecate on a Saturday then rush home.  But, it feels like a miracle when I can do this —  to get away and cram as much Mexico as possible into my spirit.  I leave Los Angeles early and start each visit with the excellent shrimp tacos at Tacos Casimiro by 7:15 – 7:20 in the morning.  I am usually their first customer.  I show up on a bicycle.  Wearing shorts.  So… they know me.  Plus I don’t think there is any other place in that small town that serves food that early, let alone seafood.  I need Casimiro.  NEED.

So I parked my vehicle in the States the other day and rode my bicycle across the border.  Shrimp tacos, here I come.  I turned the corner in the quiet residential neighborhood where the place is at and they are CLOSED.  This kind of thing has happened to me many times in Mexico.  A beloved place GONE.  Shock.  Horror.  This place was important to me.  This is going to do damage.

Stunned, I start thinking.  Maybe an employee died and they’re at the funeral.  Maybe a water pipe burst.  Maybe there’s a wedding.  Sure, and maybe I’m the Village Idiot.  But, but, “closed” doesn’t HAVE to mean “gone”, right?  And the empty Coke bottles are still stacked in the parking lot.  Oh, God, not again.  I’m sure I must have sagged visibly.  And, of course, there was no one around for me to ask with my bad Spanish.

Two weeks later I am back and I am prepared.  Prepared to enter a period of grief or to maybe see my buddies again.  (By the way, Plan B Shrimp Tacos Place doesn’t open until 9:00)  I peddled my bike slowly because riding faster was going to deliver bad news sooner.  I crept my way down their street with dread …….. and saw their blue gate was OPEN.  I had to be sure.  I pedaled faster.  Their door was OPEN.  I gave out a shout.  I pulled in, jumped off the bike, pulled a piece of paper out of my wallet, and spoke the words I’d written on it, interrupting the eleven employees in their open kitchen area as they chopped, cleaned, stacked, fried, mixed, de-veined, stirred, and sliced — “Dos semanas pasada.  Julio vientiseis. Sabado.  Mi, aqui.  Casimiro cerrado.  Mi, sustado!”   I believe I said  “Two weeks ago.  July 26.  Saturday.  Me, here.  Casimiro closed.  Me, scared!”  I only got ONE WORD out of the whole crew.  “Vacacion”.

I went straight into my fake crying routine which always works and said “No persona muerto?  Casimiro no muerto?  Mi, asustado!”  More chuckles.  Then they gave me 3 fried serranos chiles instead of my usual 2 with those magnificent shrimp tacos.  But, like I said before, I’ve lost some wonderful places in Mexico.  The statistics in the States are that half of all restaurants close within five years.  And I was told recently by an employee in Ensenada that their place will probably be going out of business soon.  A place so special to me that I go to it almost every single day I am down there.  The life lesson?  I bet we all know it.

#Two tacos, one fried chile, and zero regrets. After two weeks of panic, Casimiro’s kitchen is alive—and my soul is full again.

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 Columns

What Mexico Has Taught Me: The Need to Escape

BY THE UNKNOWN GRINGO

Erle Stanley Gardner wrote in one of his books on Baja, Hunting the Desert Whale, that ” those who are familiar with the land of Baja California are either afraid of it or they love it, and if they love it they are brought back by an irresistible fascination time and again.”  That perfectly describes me since I first crossed the border.  I just have to keep going back because my fascination shows no sign of diminishing.  And I can easily think of passions / interests in my life that have faded over time.

When Covid hit I didn’t go to Mexico anywhere near as often because I wanted to protect myself and my father.  Here at home, a lot of my hiking trails were closed down so I took city walks instead because that’s how I get my daily exercise and I like to be outdoors.  I discovered Chinatown.  W. H. Auden, the British-American poet, wrote “Man needs escape as he needs food and deep sleep.”   I learned that my “escapes” to Mexico over the decades and then Chinatown have strong similarities.

I go on Sunday mornings.  It’s only a 15 minute drive.  They have shops just like the botanicas in Mexico with ground-up organic compounds for what ails you.  The shop owner will give you advice based on your symptoms.  They have prayer candles, too.  Vendors on the street sell fresh fruit, vegetables, iced drinks, and offer samples before you buy.  Individual citizens, usually senior women, will spread blankets on the sidewalk to sell a very small variety of food or personal objects and will chant loudly in their accent “One dollah.  One dollah.” (Amazingly, each one of them almost always has a can of tuna or salmon to sell.)  Men will be selling small electronic devices and USB cables.  Baseball caps for $3. You can find hair care products, sandals, toys, used tools, etc.  One guy sells straw hats made in Mexico for $5 that sell for $20 at Home Depot.  It all reminds me of how people in Mexico have small specialty stores or are self-employed with folding tables under pop-up canopies on a city street or just a blanket with goods on the ground. 

There is a strength of culture there in Chinatown that makes me feel like I am in another country.  My senses get filled.  And that’s what has had me addicted to Mexico for decades.  I get to “escape” my own normal daily life to enjoy something I find a lot more interesting.   Both cultures fully embrace fireworks and festivals with bright costuming.  Both are rich in mythology and have sacred rituals respecting their dead.  Both have a history of strong prejudice against them up here and created ethnic neighborhoods for their own support.  (What a comfort to have neighbors that speak your language.  That would make your house feel like a home and not a remote island.)  And both are fully aware that the dominant culture in the States also absolutely LOVES their food.  What a world.

I have always felt welcomed in Mexico.  For decades I have described the Mexican people as “warm and gracious”.  It is a louder and more colorful country than my own and I love that.  The citizens of Chinatown are more reserved but I feel welcomed there, too.   Next door is the Plaza de Los Angeles, close to where the city was founded in 1781.  When I’m home on Sundays I get my two breakfast tamales there with three different salsas to choose from and then I start walking Chinatown where my favorite bakery will sell me a baked custard bun.  I get a 2 for 1 escape bargain.

2 475
 Columns

What Mexico Has Taught Me

BY THE UNKNOWN GRINGO

International Trade

I’m a docent at the Autry Museum of the American West where I take kids on tours during the school year. Usually grade school but sometimes older. No matter what age they are I always start my tour in front of the huge, stuffed bison / American buffalo we have. He’s visually impressive and I tell the kids how the native Americans would use the bison’s meat, bones, organs, sinew, hooves, leather, and fur to make food, tools, clothes, shoes, blankets, weapons, containers, and shelters called teepees. Nothing went to waste and the products they made were often traded far and wide with tribes that didn’t live in the Great Plains area.

The Pacific Coast natives, of course, harvested ocean fish and shellfish. There is evidence that the sea shells they collected were traded from tribe to tribe to tribe going eastward all the way into Nevada. Traded, eventually, to people that would never understand or see an ocean. The shells were used for beads, jewelry, ornaments, and fish hooks. They were an object of great prestige and could be considered a form of money because of that.

Does any of this apply to me or you? It sure does when some of my friends know I’m going to Mexico soon. They want me to bring back STUFF FOR THEM. The latest thing is Voltaren, an arthritis pain relief gel. They can easily get it here in the States but it is usually at 1% strength. In Mexico I can get it at Extra Strength of 2.32% AND at a better price than regular strength up north. I made the mistake of telling two friends I was doing this for one friend. Bingo, now I have three customers!!

Coffee. I get ground coffee for the woman who was my father’s wound care nurse and now feeds my beloved kitty when I am gone. I get her a wide range of beans from Chiapas, Oaxaca, and Veracruz. I tell her to save the empty bag of anything she wants more of. So far, she likes them all.

Cuban cigars. My mailman pushed me to do this many years ago. He didn’t want big fat ones. He wanted the small thin ones. I got him some, he said he liked them ……. and he wouldn’t pay me back. I kept reminding him. It took several months of me hounding him. He finally paid and then got transferred to another area of town. He was already off my list.

Olive oil. The oil made in the Guadalupe Valley by L.A.Cetto can be found at their winery in the valley, at their store in Ensenada, and sometimes at the large Calimax in Tecate. Again, I have three customers and packing 750ml bottles of olive oil on a motorcycle takes some delicate planning. (The Voltaren and coffee travel much easier.) Oddly enough, I haven’t even tried the local stuff because I buy small 250ml bottles of olive oil at Trader Joe’s.

Menthol cigarettes. Their getting banned in California in November, 2022 caused one desperate neighbor to ask me to get cartons of them EVERY TIME I went to Mexico. I had to turn him down. I did not want to have Customs at the border looking at me suspiciously and I wish there was no such thing as tobacco to harm good people. I would have felt guilty supplying him. 

When I started going to Mexico over 30 years ago I would go to the first Costco that Tijuana had. This was years before Ensenada finally got one. I would see Americans buying DOZENS of cartons of American cigarettes and was told they sneak them back across the border because cigarettes made in the U.S. cost a lot less in Mexico because there is no tax on them there. They would hide them in their RV’s and make good money selling them to their friends back home. Help to pay for part of their vacation down south. 

Mole. One year I sent surprise Christmas gifts to several friends that had salsa macha, Japanese peanuts, and mole in each box. Those packages went to friends in California, Utah, Oregon, and Alaska. The guy in Alaska sent me a desperate letter in return. Could I please send more mole because his estranged girlfriend loved the stuff and she was barely speaking to him even though they were still living together in the same house? Drama. That mole could solve? He got his wish but they remain “just friends”.

And this international trade goes in both directions. I have a buddy who works in a liquor store in Ensenada who asks me to bring un-baked buttermilk biscuits in a tube. Sure. Cheap, easy, small. Just pack them in a plastic bag in case a tube “blows”. No ruptures yet.

High-end American craft beer that isn’t exported down south. One guy swears the beer I brought him that’s made in Michigan is the best he’s ever tasted. For years I’ve given out my favorite IPA from Seattle to friends down there. It’s Elysian Space Dust IPA. The room I create for this stuff going south on my motorcycle makes room for olive oil going north.

Ice Cream. I tried taking Haagen-Dazs ice cream south ONCE over twenty years ago for a friend who works at my favorite hotel. With dry ice and lots of insulation in a cooler in my van. He had to rush it across the street to a restaurant’s freezer since it had turned too soft.

Drill bits. For a friend who worked in a gem shop and needed special drill bits for shaping his stones and minerals. A dear friend. Who never paid me back. I let it go because he was so much older than me and was probably struggling financially. I wrote about him before in the March 27, 2023 article about the Big Bottle of Mezcal – Part Two.  He was almost a legend to me with all the stories he would tell me late at night over a bottle of mezcal about “lost Spanish gold mines, partnerships ending in murder, briefcases of money that would bring out the worst in men, eight foot tall human skeletons found in a cave, mining huge meteorites in the desert for big bucks, and how eating powdered rattlesnake helped him to please the ladies”. He’s passed now and when I go by his old shop I can get a little choked up. I wish I could buy him more drill bits.

A lot of things cross our border in both directions. People, ideas, music, food, products. Sometimes with conflict but also with convergence. International trade brings us closer. My motorcycle and I are a small part of that. I imagine most of you are.

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 Baja Norte, Columns

Que Pasa in Baja?

Baja Sees Growth in Medical Tourism. Currently, 4.5 million visitors are seeking medical treatments in Baja California, with Ensenada seeing a significant recovery since the pandemic, as highlighted by Atzimba Villegas Pérez, president of the Health Tourism Association. After speaking at the Ensenada Business Coordinating Council, Villegas mentioned that Tijuana attracts 57% of these medical tourists, while Ensenada now receives 15%, showing recent growth.

Popular services include plastic surgery, orthopedics, stem cell treatments, and gynecology. This demand has led to projects like Epione Medical Plaza, which aims to become a comprehensive health tourism district, offering a mix of medical facilities, hospitality, and dining.

Villegas emphasized that Baja California is a leader in responsible medical tourism, promoting only accredited professionals and infrastructure. Ensenada is also poised to become a major wellness and assisted living destination, attracting more investment and economic growth as it caters to aging baby boomers.

Hugo Torres Chabert Shares His Journey in New Book. In an emotional event, businessman and politician Hugo Eduardo Torres Chabert presented his book, “Mi compromiso con Rosarito 1943-2023”, reflecting on his commitment to Rosarito’s prosperity and the growth of Hotel Rosarito. The event was held at the Hotel Rosarito’s Salón Mexicano, with friends, family, and special guests in attendance.

The book details Torres Chabert’s journey, including Rosarito’s municipalization, his retirement from politics, and his family’s management of the hotel. It also highlights his contributions to local culture and education, such as promoting civic life in schools and supporting cultural events.

Dedicated to the people of Rosarito, his family, and his friends, this 149-page book contains exclusive images of Rosarito’s history. Torres Chabert expressed that the book is a reflection on his legacy and a gift to inspire future generations.

Credit Rating Boost for Baja. The financial management of Governor Marina del Pilar Ávila Olmeda has led to an improvement in Baja California’s credit rating, as per the latest HR Ratings report. The rating has been upgraded from HR BBB to HR BBB+, thanks to the administration’s focus on transparency and responsible spending.

Governor Ávila highlighted that this financial success has allowed Baja California to strengthen its economy, attract investment, and create better jobs. The state achieved a financial surplus in 2023, marking its third consecutive credit rating upgrade.

Valuable infrastructure projects, like the expansion of the La Nopalera water treatment plant in Tecate and the rehabilitation of Rosarito Norte’s wastewater treatment plant, were key factors in this rating improvement. The agency also acknowledged the strength of Baja California’s manufacturing sector, which plays a significant role in contributing to the national GDP.

Rosarito Tourism Suffers Due to Poor Policing. According to Rosario Castillo, a local restaurateur, 2023 and 2024 have been the worst years for tourism in the city, largely due to the poor performance of the municipal police, especially the Traffic section. Castillo expressed hopes that with a change in local authorities, the issues of police extortion and rising insecurity can be addressed.

He highlighted that police officers often take advantage of tourists’ lack of knowledge, stopping them on Benito Juárez Boulevard for minor reasons like tinted windows, and using these as excuses for extortion. The new traffic regulations haven’t been widely publicized, leaving drivers vulnerable to intimidation.

Castillo is optimistic about the incoming administration led by Rocio Adame, who he believes listens more to citizens and organized groups. He hopes the new government will focus on preventive policing rather than punitive measures.

Baja to Benefit from New Social Housing Program. Governor Marina del Pilar Ávila Olmeda announced that the incoming president, Claudia Sheinbaum Pardo, has a social housing program that will benefit Baja California, among other states. This announcement was made during the opening of a new Infonavit Service Center (CESI) in Tijuana, where Infonavit’s Director General, Carlos Martínez Velásquez, was also present.

Ávila Olmeda emphasized the importance of the State Housing Plan, describing it as unique in the country. She mentioned how they have helped San Quintín, where new, spacious homes for workers have been built.

The governor also highlighted that Baja California will be a focus for the new social housing program, with plans to eliminate local taxes to make the process more accessible. She also noted the ongoing efforts to rescue abandoned properties and create more affordable housing options, addressing the lack of attention from major developers to workers’ needs.

45th Rosarito-Ensenada Bike Ride a Success. This weekend, over three thousand cyclists participated in the 45th edition of the Rosarito-Ensenada Bike Ride, bringing in an estimated economic boost of over a million dollars. Claudia Ley, the event promoter, noted that the ride coincided with a long weekend, leading many visitors to extend their stay, which further boosted the local economy.

The ride featured cyclists from across Mexico, the U.S., and even participants from Peru, Colombia, and various Central American countries. The event’s economic impact was estimated by the State Tourism Department, which considered not just the number of cyclists but also the additional companions each brought along.

Ley thanked everyone who has supported the event over the past 45 years, acknowledging that while there have been challenges, they are proud of promoting family-friendly and healthy tourism in Ensenada. Moving forward, a new company will take over organizing the ride.

Sheinbaum Outlines Major Plans for Baja California. After receiving the Presidential Sash, Claudia Sheinbaum announced plans for significant infrastructure projects in Baja California. Among her 100 commitments are efforts to ensure water supply and reuse, build the Punta Colonet port, and maintain current tax incentives in border areas.

In her first national address, Sheinbaum emphasized the promotion of clean energy, including private participation, and pushing for less gasoline consumption and more electromobility. She aims to maintain the energy generation split—54% state and 46% private.

Sheinbaum also announced initiatives for water management, starting this month, and plans to improve irrigation on over 200,000 hectares. On the port front, she revealed investments to construct Punta Colonet and expand several other ports across Mexico.

Additionally, Sheinbaum intends to start a large-scale housing registration program in Tijuana and implement solar panel installations to help reduce electricity costs for residents in high-tariff areas.

Baja California’s Strong Export Numbers in Q2 2024. Baja California ranked as the third highest contributor to Mexico’s total exports in Q2 2024, reaching $14.35 billion, representing 10.3% of the national total. According to data from Inegi, Baja California saw a 4.4% annual increase in export value.

The state stood out particularly in exporting computing, communication, and electronic equipment, contributing $4.03 billion, or 19.5% of the national total, coming second after Chihuahua.

Baja California also ranked fourth for exports of electrical components and power generation equipment, with $882.8 million, accounting for 10.2% of the country’s total.

In the agricultural sector, Baja California placed fifth, with $307.8 million in exports, although it saw a decrease of 23.1% compared to the previous year. Overall, Baja California continues to play a significant role in Mexico’s export landscape, especially in technology and manufacturing sectors.

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 Columns

What Mexico Has Taught Me

BY THE UNKNOWN GRINGO

COMPARISON IS THE THIEF OF JOY

Comparison is the thief of joy.  You know who said that?  Theodore Roosevelt, the U.S. President from 1901-1909.  And I get his point.  If I compare myself to another man……. younger, handsome, beautiful house, in better shape, Italian sports car, whiter teeth, doesn’t have hair growing out of his nose or ears like I do…… then I start looking for the mezcal.  There is always someone doing better than me.  

But over the years I have compared myself to people I know who have a passion for a place that is as strong as mine is for Ensenada.  And what it takes for them to get to that place versus what it takes for me to get to Ensenada is interesting.

I met my best-friend-from-college, Dan, when I moved to Oregon.  He met Ruth there.  They got married and live in a small town off Highway 5 between Portland and Salem.  And they are absolutely in love with Newfoundland.  This started in 1998 and they fly there two times a year out of Portland to either Minneapolis or Atlanta, then to Toronto, then to St. John’s, Newfoundland.  It takes them about 16 hours from their front door to the hotel that they like.  16 hours.

Dan says Toronto is the worst part of the trip.  The flight regs for Air Canada say that if there is lightning in the area you have to wait in your parked plane on the tarmac a full hour until after that possibility passes before you can pull up to the jet way and exit the plane.  They have sat in their plane for hours before the lightning leaves.  And they have sat and watched their connecting flight take off without them.  It’s called a ground stop. 

Now they have also fallen in love with New Zealand.  Wanna guess?  Their home to Portland to LAX to Auckland to Christchurch airport is 27 and a half hours.  And finally to their B&B destination there’s a 3 and a half hour drive in a rental car.  That’s 31 hours from bed to bed.  31.

Let’s compare.  I had my best-friend-from-childhood’s daughter come to live with me for two years from her home in Utah while she pursued a career as an actress.  Her heaven on earth?  Disneyland.   As a child her whole family would drive a full day to get to Los Angeles for the beach…..and Disneyland.  Just 35 miles from where I live.  Kelly bought an annual pass and sometimes went there twice a day…… with a friend and then maybe by herself later on.  From my house to the House of the Mouse?  An hour maximum if traffic is slow on Highway 5.  Maybe an hour.

Now.  Me.  To Ensenada.  On a motorcycle.  For years I used to drive my cargo van when I was buying solid wood rancho furniture in Rosarito and Ensenada.   A comfortable room on wheels that I could fit anything into.  And drive in the middle of the night if I wanted.  No more.  You’ll read why.  Now I leave on the motorcycle before the sun comes up to avoid as much traffic as possible in LA, Orange, and San Diego counties but NOT when it’s real dark because I don’t want to hit a peeled off big-rig tire tread or a handyman’s ladder on the 5.  The natural resting position for a motorcycle is laying on its side and not up on two wheels.  You defy gravity when you ride one.  It’s 213 miles to my hotel down there.  I will gas up before I cross the border so I can ride all the way to Ensenada and then all the way home on that full tank of gas.  My bike has a large gas tank.  Crossing the border going south is fast and then I take the toll road along the coast.  I can do this in 3 and a half hours. 

Going north is different.  No need to get more gas but I have to cross into the United States and that can take more time than crossing the border going south.  Now, I am on a motorcycle.  I do not have to wait in line at any of the crossings, Tijuana or Tecate.  No two to three hour, mind-grinding waits because motorcycles can “bounce” the line by going in between the cars, around the concrete barriers, around the vendors and beggars, and sometimes on the sidewalks.  I call it the “culture” of the border.  The people in the cars expect it.  I have never had anyone yell at me.  The vendors expect it too.  This dates back to when all motorcycles had air-cooled engines.  They had to keep moving to prevent the engine from over-heating and locking up.  Nowadays, most bikes have radiators or oil coolers to prevent that.  My 1986 bike?  Air-cooled.  But I have to tell you……bouncing the line going north has always made me feel like a king.  Yes, I am exposed to wind, heat, cold, fog, rain, oil and debris on the road, bugs hitting me….. but bouncing that line?  Sweet.  By the way, motorcyclists have a name for people driving protected in their cars.  Cagers.

How long to get home?  About the same.  I do leave Ensenada just as early as when I leave home and stopping for gas going south chews up a little less time than crossing the border going north, but at the most it should be maybe 15 extra minutes to get home.  There will be a little more traffic since I am going through Los Angeles county in full daylight but this is almost always on a Sunday morning.  Can’t complain.   

But I can compare.  I have friends in better shape and worse shape than me.  I’m 71 years old now and definitely feel the effects of my age.  I can complain but I have three close friends who have passed on.   I’m alive and they aren’t. 

Should we compare at all?  I’ve got an idea.  I’ll take you to my four favorite taco places in Ensenada — Los Originales, Tacos Don Zefe, La Avioneta, and Tacos Lily — and you take me to your four.  We’ll compare.  And if I lose ……well, I will actually be happy to lose, won’t I?   Adios, amigos.

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 Baja Norte, Columns

Que Pasa in Baja?

Ensenada-San Diego Ferry Schedule Announced. Azteca Ferries has finally unveiled the travel schedules for the much-anticipated Ensenada to San Diego ferry service, although ticket prices remain under wraps. The ferry journey, lasting between two and a half to three hours, is not yet assigned specific days of operation, keeping potential travelers on their toes. Morning ferries will depart from Ensenada at 7:00 AM, reaching San Diego by 9:30 AM, with an afternoon service returning by 5:30 PM. Conversely, San Diego departures are set for 11:30 AM and 7:00 PM, with corresponding arrivals in Ensenada. The company advises travelers to plan ahead to ensure a seamless and enjoyable experience. Despite the delay in releasing ticket costs, excitement is high as this new link promises to boost cross-border connectivity.

Rosarito Real Estate Market Poised for a Comeback. Rosarito’s real estate market, which has seen a 30% dip in sales recently, could be in for a boost this September, thanks to expected interest rate cuts in the U.S. Gustavo Torres Ramírez, President of the Rosarito Business Coordinating Council, is optimistic about a potential 15% rise in property investments. The majority of Rosarito’s real estate buyers are from Southern California, and lower U.S. mortgage rates could make it easier for them to refinance and invest in a second home south of the border. Torres Ramírez believes that the high cost of housing in California makes Rosarito an attractive option. However, concerns over potential judicial reforms in Mexico are causing some investor uncertainty. Still, if the market conditions align, Rosarito could see a renewed surge in real estate development, something that hasn’t happened since the COVID-19 pandemic.

Rosarito in Need of More Police Officers. Playas de Rosarito is in urgent need of over 300 additional police officers to adequately cover the city’s security demands, according to Francisco Javier Arellano Ortíz, head of the local police department. While the current administration has added 50 new officers, this is far from enough to address the city’s growing needs. Complicating matters, some officers are currently out of service due to questionable disability claims, further straining the force. Arellano Ortíz emphasized the importance of continued investment in security and maintaining strong coordination with federal and state authorities to combat crime and violence. He noted that, despite challenges, violence in the area has decreased over the past five years, with a significant reduction in homicides and bank robberies. However, to sustain and improve these gains, the next government must prioritize police funding and avoid fiscal austerity measures that could jeopardize public safety.

Governor Launches “Soy México” Campaign to Simplify Birth Registration. On August 15, Governor Marina del Pilar Avila Olmeda kicked off the “Soy México” 2024 campaign, aiming to make it easier for Mexican-American children and adults born in the U.S. to register their birth certificates in Baja California. This initiative, led by the General Secretariat of Government, started in Tijuana and will extend to other cities like Mexicali, Tecate, Playas de Rosarito, and Ensenada. The goal is to remove bureaucratic hurdles and cut costs for those seeking to obtain Mexican nationality, offering savings of up to 4,500 pesos per person by waiving fees for apostilles and translations. The campaign reflects the state’s commitment to supporting vulnerable families and aligns with President Andrés Manuel López Obrador’s vision of ensuring a dignified life for all Mexicans. Over the coming months, the government will work with local municipalities to ensure that school-aged children and others in need can benefit from this program.

Tourism Committee Gears Up for 2025 Tianguis in Baja California. The 49th edition of the Tianguis Turístico, set for 2025, is shaping up to be a major event in Baja California. With the Rosarito Baja Center as its main venue, this binational tourism expo will be the first of its kind held in northern Mexico. During the official ceremony, Governor Marina del Pilar Ávila Olmeda and Mexico’s Tourism Secretary, Miguel Torruco Marqués, highlighted the event’s significance. Expected to generate an economic impact of 1.3 billion pesos, the Tianguis aims to draw 10,000 visitors, including tour operators from the U.S., Canada, Asia, South America, and Europe. The event is planned for April 28 to May 1, 2025, and preparations are in full swing, with more than 7,100 hotel rooms across Tijuana, Ensenada, Rosarito, and Tecate already designated for attendees. This event is set to make history in Mexican tourism and further boost Baja California’s global appeal.

Sassi del Valle Project Expected to Start in December. The long-awaited Sassi del Valle project, first introduced in August 2023, is now anticipated to begin construction in December, according to Mexico’s Tourism Secretary, Miguel Torruco Marqués. During a recent press conference with Governor Marina del Pilar Ávila Olmeda, Torruco shared his inspiration for the project, which draws from the success of Val’Quirico, a Tuscany-inspired development in Tlaxcala. Sassi del Valle, however, will feature architecture reminiscent of Matera, Italy, and blend elements of Baja California’s historical missions.

While the project aims to bring a European flair to the region, with a private investment of 1.5 billion pesos, its start has been delayed due to pending municipal permits. Despite these setbacks, the project’s foundation stone has already been laid, and locals are hopeful that construction will finally kick off by the end of the year.

Baja California’s Culinary Stars Shine in National Competition. Ten of Baja California’s top restaurants have made it to the finals of the prestigious “Mérito Restaurantero 2024,” a national competition recognizing excellence in the culinary industry. The state president of Canirac BC, Juan José Plascencia Huerta, praised the finalists for their modern entrepreneurial spirit, leadership, and dedication to service. The competition, which has been honoring the best in the restaurant industry for 33 years, is a significant accolade, showcasing creativity, culinary excellence, and innovation.

Among the finalists are notable names like Jorge A. Lutteroth del Riego from Carl’s Jr. in Tijuana, Aldo Ayala Contreras of Salvia Blanca in Ensenada, and Maribel Aldaco from Fauna in Ensenada. These nominations highlight the vibrant and diverse culinary scene in Baja California, with Tijuana leading as one of the top three Canirac delegations in the country. The recognition not only honors individual excellence but also reinforces Baja California’s growing influence in Mexico’s gastronomic landscape.

Gulfstream Expands Operations in Mexicali with $370 Million Investment. Governor Marina del Pilar Ávila Olmeda has announced a significant boost to Baja California’s economy with Gulfstream’s new investment in Mexicali. The aerospace giant is set to pour $370 million into expanding its operations, adding more than 540,000 square feet to its existing facilities. This expansion is expected to create 1,500 high-quality jobs, further establishing Mexicali as a key player in the aerospace industry.

Gulfstream, already a major employer in the region with over 5,000 employees, continues to be an economic pillar in Mexicali. The new investment not only strengthens Baja California’s leadership in the aerospace sector but also aligns with the state’s broader goals of economic development and job creation. Governor Marina del Pilar emphasized the importance of this expansion for the region’s growth, solidifying Gulfstream’s role as a major contributor to Mexicali’s economic landscape.

Ensenada Inaugurates Long-Awaited Sports Hall of Fame. After 30 years of anticipation, Ensenada finally has its own Sports Hall of Fame, thanks to a 3.3 million pesos investment by Energía Costa Azul. The new facility, named after the late professor Alfredo Marín Méndez, was officially opened with a ceremony attended by prominent athletes, their families, and local officials.

This project, part of the Social Investment Program by ECA, aims to honor the city’s athletes, sports journalists, and promoters who have made a lasting impact on Ensenada’s sports history. The Hall of Fame is located within the Centro Social, Cívico y Cultural Riviera, and features exhibits of uniforms, photos, and memorabilia from various sports disciplines.

The public can visit the Hall of Fame starting next week, with visiting hours from 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM, Tuesday through Sunday. This new space is a tribute to the power of sports in transforming lives and building communities.

New Ramps Coming to Playa Hermosa for Better Accessibility. Playa Hermosa in Ensenada is getting two new wooden ramps to ensure universal accessibility, according to Jaime Figueroa Tentori, the director of Infrastructure for Ensenada’s XXIV Ayuntamiento. These ramps are part of ongoing works initially overseen by the federal government through Sedatu.

The original plan included stone and concrete structures, but following consultations with environmental experts, it was decided that wooden ramps would be less invasive and cause less erosion to the beach. The first ramp, already completed, spans about 90 meters from the first viewpoint down to the beach, providing a comfortable slope for all visitors, including those using wheelchairs.

A second ramp is planned for the northern end of Playa Hermosa, within the federal Asipona zone. In total, 12 million pesos have been invested in these improvements, making the beach more accessible for everyone.

Concrete Upgrades Coming to Valle de Guadalupe Roads. The main roads connecting Valle de Guadalupe are set to receive a significant upgrade with new concrete paving, thanks to funding from Fideicomiso Empresarial II and the Baja California government’s infrastructure department, Sidurt. The project kicked off with a modest ceremony and will involve an investment of 10 million pesos. The first phase, funded jointly by Fidem II and the state government, will focus on improving the roads crucial to both tourism and local residents.

The upgraded roads are expected to enhance the visitor experience, especially with the upcoming Tianguis Turístico 2025, where Baja California will be the host. Local businesses, particularly in the tourism sector, are eager for the improvements, which will also help showcase the region’s charm to international visitors. The project includes applying a 15-centimeter layer of MR-42 concrete, ensuring the durability of these vital routes for years to come.

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 Breaking News, Columns

What Mexico Has Taught Me

BY THE UNKNOWN GRINGO

I Just Wanted Breakfast.
I had noticed this place before. It was right next to a now long-gone mezcal store that I used to go to a lot. Right on the beach but a longer bicycle ride than I wanted to take. So I caught a city bus three blocks from my hotel for 13 pesos, about 70 cents currently. I’ve been going there now for years.

I like the city buses. Cheap and you usually don’t have to wait very long. Maybe 10-15 minutes max. They are all small, retired rural-country buses from the U.S. since they were only meant to seat about twenty. In Mexico they can hold a WHOLE LOT MORE. (They usually still have signs in English inside telling you what to do in an emergency.)  A full bus in Mexico can be an experience that might challenge you but I find it interesting in how people treat one another. The men are often quite gallant.  Children and seniors are treated with consideration. The buses going north in the morning towards El Sauzal will always have a lot of students who are going to the cluster of universities around the Punta Morro Hotel. When they get off, the bus is often close to empty.

When it gets close to the restaurant, Terra Noble, I tell the driver to stop at the City Express Plus building that is next to it. It is 12 stories tall and I assume all the drivers recognize it versus my small restaurant. If you are approaching from El Sauzal to the north then point out the 20 stories tall Viento building since that blocks City Express visually going south. Both of these monsters were not there when I first started going to Terra Noble. To get off any city bus you just ask the driver to stop. I hunch down close to him and point as well. You do not have to get off at a bus stop with a sign and bench. Magic!!

Walk towards the restaurant and look for cats before you enter. My favorite is Bellota. That means acorn in Spanish. She is a total lover and might flop on her side so you can rub her belly. She often follows me in but I walk straight through the restaurant to the outside tables just above the beach. As I do this I will ask for coffee, with milk, no sugar. I already know what I want to eat; the omelette Mexicano.  The guacamole that comes with this is excellent. I seat myself… and look.

The ocean is right there. I have seen dolphins right in front of me, jumping and swimming. This last time I saw a flight of 14 pelicans in a tight formation. Of course there will be squawking sea gulls and sometimes an elegant white crane going by. The coffee cup gets refilled while I wait for the food. I’m in heaven. The omelette comes and gets devoured. I do have to ask for salt. There’s more than one table but I almost always have the ocean to myself. I pay the check and then the real adventure begins.

I go down a small bluff to the beach and hike north. It’s a rock beach. If the tide is low you can try walking on the exposed sand, but I prefer the rocks. They are about the size of a clenched fist or bigger. You will slip and slide. An unusually high tide might get you pushed up against the short bluff but I’ve never had a problem. I walk the rocks carefully to find pieces of boats, thick plastic or fiber ropes, fishing nets, rubber boots and shoes, sea shells, driftwood, dead pelicans, plus lots of interesting things that I have taken home over the years on my motorcycle. It isn’t easy packing stuff on a motorcycle so that means I must really like what I take. Walk carefully on those rocks to avoid a twisted ankle. It’s worth it. Finders Keepers.

A few hundred yards up the beach there’s a stairway built into the bluff that easily gets you off the beach. It’s at the Ramona Beach Trailer Park. And they have cats and dogs there. At the office and those of their customers. A bonus for me. For years two hound dogs there have greeted me with their distinctive howls. 

The coast highway is right there. Get out your 13 pesos and flag down the next southbound city bus. You don’t have to have exact change for the driver but I wouldn’t give him anything larger than a twenty peso note or coin. The bus will either go down the coast / Costero road to the McDonald’s / Three Heads Park intersection and then turn left towards the downtown bus station or will head inland / downtown / Centro from the big intersection just below the universities / Punta Morro. If you take that bus it will end up at the bus station across from the Soriana on 6th between Gastelum and Miramar.  The coast bus gets me closer to my hotel but the downtown bus only makes me walk another three blocks. I would rather take the first bus that comes along in front of Ramona Beach and save time waiting since there are lots more Centro buses versus Costero buses.

Terra Noble opens at 8:30 and closes at 5:30. I have never eaten from their dinner menu. I have never eaten anything but the omelette Mexicano because I like it so much. Maybe I’m the Village Idiot. They are starting to build a website and I was told you can find them on Facebook and Instagram. They are closed on Mondays. 

I just wanted breakfast but I also got an interesting bus ride, cats, an ocean view, a beach hike, more cats, dogs, and another bus ride. Even the Village Idiot knows when he’s found a good thing.

This last time I built a shrine to my deceased family on that beach. I can’t imagine it will survive the waves for long and maybe that’s the point. None of us are here forever. And some of us aren’t even here for a long time. We should work hard to be here for a GOOD time. Time is the most precious commodity on Earth.

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 Columns

What Mexico Has Taught Me

BY THE UNKNOWN GRINGO

Now What?

For decades I wondered what I would do once I retired from being a contractor.  I started an IRA on the advice of my tax accountant in the 1990’s and saved money when I could.  Especially since I knew my Social Security checks weren’t going to be a lot because I was self-employed for so many years.  And I didn’t start taking those payments until I turned 70 last year in order to maximize the monthly amount.  I retired five years ago but all my dreams were put on hold while I took care of my father.  I dreamed and dreamed.  And ended up taking only short trips to Ensenada then just day trips to Tecate.   No flying back down to Oaxaca, Guadalajara, Puebla, or elsewhere.

I was a family care-provider for over 16 years, first taking care of my mother then my father. ( I learned a whole new trade and probably am qualified to be a nurse’s aide.)  My father passed away last December at the age of 99.  I moved as fast as possible in emptying their house, cleaning it, painting it, and selling it.  It took four crazy months but now I can start to do things again like I used to years ago.  What will that be?

Years ago I told myself I would eventually move out of the San Fernando Valley here in the Los Angeles area to get away from the summer temps that routinely hit the 100’s for weeks at a time.  It’s miserable for me and the cat and it’s only getting hotter.   I am NOT the kind of person who can tolerate staying trapped indoors with the AC going at least 12 hours a day.  I like …. no ….I NEED to be outdoors.  A lot.

And I love Ensenada.  Living there, close to the water, where……what?…..it rarely gets above 85?   That sounds like heaven to me and has for years.  Fog?  Cold mornings?  Lots of drizzle?  Bring it on!!  I lived in Oregon for years and only got tired of the hay fever up there.  Cold doesn’t bother me.  High heat does.  And, yes, my body handles high heat VERY WELL since I sweat like a broken faucet as my body protects me.  When I was a kid on the playground people constantly asked me why I was crying.  I was sweating.   Give me the beach!!

Being fairly close to the border just 70 miles away and then not far from the two large Kaiser-Permanente facilities in San Diego sounds good at my age.  And over the years I’ve asked several members of the ex-pat community in Ensenada if they are happy with the quality of health care locally.  I like what I’ve been told.  I was once driven to an ER there with the tip of my finger gone and was treated well.

After my dad died I looked on Craigslist just for the hell of it and found a nice trailer for sale in a gated community on the beach just above Ensenada.  Four hundred dollars a month rent and that included electricity and internet.  The trailer had California tags and had a covered patio and metal shed next to it.  But….. it was too soon to make a jump like that.  I was dealing with the house.  And, it was on the second row of trailers and not right on the beach.  (The front row probably would have higher rent.  It should.)  But, it was a deal I could have afforded AND walked away from in the future if I needed to.  Versus buying a house.

So, now, I’m really thinking about what is best for me.  I think I will continue to stay at my hotel there but start looking at rentals.  Hold off on buying for now.  I have always been a tourist down south.  My questions are…… Do I want to live there?  Or just enjoy it one week a month?  Or two weeks a month?  What?  As a tourist I’m eating fried shrimp tacos every day and pounding beers and mezcal like a frat boy.  Do that every day for weeks at a time and I’ll be a blimp in XXL shorts.  Or will staying at the hotel one or two weeks at a time prove that I’m really a tourist at heart?  Will I get bored eating salads and reading books in Ensenada when I could just do that here?

And, should I sell my house in Los Angeles and get a place in San Diego that has me bouncing across the border with ease and very close to Kaiser-Permanente?  Plus, I really do love my house.  I just don’t like where it is.  It has thirty years of ME in it.  The backyard with all my fruit trees is a slice of heaven for me.  Am I going to plant new fruit trees somewhere else and wait ten years before they look kind of good?

Or get a new place east of San Diego off of Hwy 94 so I can easily cross the border at Tecate and enjoy that nice town, the drive to the Guadalupe Valley, and a quick bounce to a small rental or my hotel in Ensenada?  But….. then……be further away from Kaiser?  Because at my age, while I am still in good health, I am starting to think I need to make decisions that will make sense ten to twenty years from now.

What will I do?  Dunno.  But I’m telling myself to go SLOW so that I hopefully don’t make any dumb decisions.  I’ll keep you informed as I learn what Mexico has to teach me about myself.

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The Newport to Ensenada International Yacht Race turned 70 this year. Read more on this edition's Que Pasa in Baja column.
 Articles, Baja Norte, Columns

Que Pasa in Baja?

Finally! Santa Anita Territorial Dispute Resolved. The governments of Ensenada and Playas de Rosarito have begun the process to officially transfer the administration of the town of Santa Anita to Rosarito by the end of 2024. This area, which has been at the center of legal and administrative disputes between the two municipalities since 1995, is moving towards resolution. The official page of Playas de Rosarito reported ongoing meetings aimed at transferring community accounts and ensuring Santa Anita residents will soon be able to handle their civic duties and taxation within Rosarito’s jurisdiction. The transition involves the exchange of information on commercial permits, land use, and cadastral data among other administrative details, led by Rosarito’s Syndicate. A public ceremony will soon announce the official transfer, marking a significant step in resolving this longstanding territorial conflict.

Economic Boom from the 76th Newport to Ensenada Yacht Race. The 76th edition of the Newport to Ensenada International Yacht Race was not only a thrilling sporting event but also a financial windfall for the region, with over 100 sailboats participating and generating more than 1 million pesos in local economic impact. This race, held from April 26 to 28, saw competitors from the U.S., Mexico, Spain, the UK, Germany, France, and several South American countries, underscoring its international allure. The local hospitality sector, including hotels and restaurants, greatly benefited from the influx of visitors, adding substantial revenue to Ensenada’s economy. The race also marks the beginning of Ensenada’s peak tourist season, which includes off-road races, the Vendimia wine harvest festival, concerts, and destination weddings. This year’s race saw 126 sign-ups with 108 actual participants, and the weekend was supported by over 120 volunteers who helped make the event a success.

Baja California Faces Severe Colorado River Water Cuts. The Permanent Forum on Binational Waters has issued a stark warning: the upcoming cut in Colorado River water allocations to Mexico in 2024 will exceed the annual water usage of all Baja Californian cities reliant on this source. According to research by professors from the University of California and Autonomous University of Baja California (UABC), the cut will amount to 263 million cubic meters. This figure surpasses the combined annual water consumption of Ensenada, Mexicali, Tecate, Rosarito, and Tijuana, which is about 235 million cubic meters. Furthermore, 2025 promises even sharper reductions, with an additional 346 million cubic meters withheld. This sequence of cuts, which started in 2021, will reduce Mexico’s Colorado River water by 33% compared to the allocations established in the 1944 treaty. The cuts are linked to the water level at Hoover Dam; lower levels mean more severe cuts. While some of the withheld water is recoverable by 2026, only 37% will actually return to Mexico, with the rest utilized by the U.S.

Baby Owls Found in Rosarito Office. In a surprising turn of events, the staff at a factory in Rosarito discovered six baby owls in the human resources office, prompting an unusual rescue operation by local firefighters.

On a typical Tuesday morning around 10:00 AM, the call for help came from Manufacturing, a local factory nestled in the Lucio Blanco neighborhood on Balbino Obeso Street. The human resources manager stumbled upon the little owls and quickly reached out to the firefighters for assistance in safely handling the feathered foundlings.

The owlets were promptly taken to a veterinary clinic managed by Francisco Ayala, a well-respected figure in the community and former president of Rosarito’s Veterinarian Association. According to Ayala, the owlets were barely over a week old and needed immediate care.

To provide the best environment for their recovery, the decision was made to house the baby owls in a residential setting temporarily. Here, they could be closely monitored and fed until they were ready to grow their full plumage. Once mature enough, the plan is to move them to a wildlife refuge located in Ensenada.

Ayala explained that owls are primarily nocturnal feeders, and currently, the rescuers are feeding them meat. However, he noted a concerning detail; two of the baby owls showed little interest in food, a potential indicator of health issues that will require close observation.

New Rules for Tinted Windows and Public Drinking in Rosarito. The local government just rolled out a new set of rules that are about to make life a bit easier for those of you sporting tinted windows. Starting now, you can cruise around with your windows tinted without sweating over fines or being pulled over, as long as your tints aren’t too dark. Think California-style rules, and you’re on the right track.

But that’s not all—Rosarito is also introducing a more laid-back vibe in its tourist zone. You can now sip your favorite drink openly in designated streets and even on public transport within this area, no hassle. This move aims to keep the festive spirit alive and kicking, without the nagging interruptions for enjoying a drink.

The move aims to avoid unnecessary fines by the local police, which only amount to extra opportunities for extorting our precious tourists.

Ensenada Gears Up for Bluefin Tuna Tournament. This May, Ensenada will host the exciting “Baja Bluefin Tuna Tournament,” boasting a prize pool over $45,000. The event, set for May 10-12, aims to position Ensenada as Mexico’s tuna fishing capital, with more than 50 teams from around the globe expected to compete. The tournament promises significant economic benefits, with an estimated $6 million impact on the local economy. Organizers and Baja California’s Fishing Secretary highlighted the event’s potential to showcase the region’s prime bluefin tuna migration season, making it a unique and strategic fishing contest. With stringent catch limits to ensure sustainability, the competition aligns with conservation efforts while offering impressive prizes for the winners.

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 Columns

What Mexico Has Taught Me

BY THE UNKNOWN GRINGO

Taxis in Mexico. 

I’ve previously written about taking the municipal buses up and down the coast from Ensenada. I’ve used them to travel north to my favorite breakfast spots, afternoon beer pubs, or breweries and then south down to La Bufadora early in the morning before the crowds arrive. They are easy to use and incredibly affordable. Plus, I get to enjoy the scenery and leave the driving to Pablo or Carlos. However, I’ve also occasionally taken taxis in Mexico and found them to be a great asset, despite my limited Spanish skills. There’s just one minor issue I’ve encountered, which I’ll explain later.

Taking a cab from my hotel to the auditorium or gymnasium where lucha libre wrestling events are held is straightforward. I’ve done this in Puebla and Oaxaca. Simply tell the driver the name of the venue, mention “lucha libre,” and he’ll know exactly where to go. Agree on the fare before you enter the cab and then you’re off. Always carry your hotel’s business card with you. After the event, there will be several taxis waiting outside the venue. Approach them with your hotel card and negotiate the fare you prefer. Bingo.

In Guadalajara, I frequently take taxis to visit the outlying neighborhoods. Tonala, known for its daily open-air market and pottery specialization, also boasts numerous pulquerias where you can sample the pre-Hispanic fermented agave drink, pulque—a taste of history in a glass. The drink, slightly less potent than beer, is often flavored with fruit to balance its natural tartness.

Zapopan is home to the Huichol National Museum. The Huichol tribe is renowned for creating stunning art pieces using beads or yarn on flat wooden boards or carved figures. I own several pieces that always capture my attention when I spot them in shops. Like Tonala, Zapopan also hosts a daily open-air market.

Tlaquepaque is celebrated for its hand-blown glass, upscale gift shops, fine dining, and the vibrant El Parian at the town center where wonderful free public events take place. Venture off the main streets on foot, and you’ll easily find a glass-blowing shop to observe artisans at work. Don’t forget to carry your hotel card for the return trip.

Once, I took a taxi with a friend from Guadalajara to Tequila, about 30-35 miles northwest. We rented the cab by the hour after negotiating with a driver outside our hotel. Opting for back roads over the main highway, we enjoyed the changing scenery from urban to rural, passing through neighborhoods and fields of blue agave. We visited several distilleries by simply showing up and knocking on their doors, enjoyed a fantastic lunch in a scenic outdoor restaurant overlooking a vast canyon west of town, and even treated our driver to a meal. The day was nothing short of spectacular.

In Tecate, I once discovered a large scorpion statue made from rock and metal that wouldn’t fit on my bicycle. After returning my bike to my van across the border, I walked back, hailed a taxi with a large trunk, purchased the sculpture, and managed to transport this impressive piece across the border, joking with Customs that I was importing a giant agricultural pest into the States.

However, the best ride was in Oaxaca. I wanted to explore the mezcal-producing areas around Santiago Amatlan and visit the famous rug-weaving village of Teotitlan del Valle. I hired a driver by the hour at the town plaza, and we headed south. We visited palenques where agave is cooked, crushed, fermented, and distilled. Arriving unannounced, we were welcomed warmly and purchased several bottles to take home. After a delightful lunch, which I shared with my driver, we visited the small village to meet the weavers. I fell in love with a wool poncho that a weaver promised to send to Los Angeles after their annual festival, the Guelaguetza, but it never arrived. I still wonder what happened to it. The village also houses a lovely museum. Our return drive to the city was relaxed and contented, and I made sure to tip my driver generously.

My only advice: always agree on the taxi fare before getting in. If possible, ask a few drivers in the same area to ensure a fair price. Once in Guadalajara, a driver tried to charge me “600 pesos” for a short ride, taking advantage of my limited Spanish and assuming I didn’t understand the currency value. This was when the exchange rate was ten pesos to a dollar—clearly an attempt to overcharge what he thought was a naive tourist fresh from the airport with newly exchanged pesos. I refused and found another driver who agreed to a more reasonable fare of fifty or sixty pesos. Always carry a map, your hotel cards, a pen and paper, and negotiate the price beforehand. And don’t forget to end your ride with a hearty “Gracias, amigo!”

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