Every November, Ensenada trades plastic pumpkins for marigolds and good wine. The town doesn’t do gloomy. It paints its face, raises a glass, and celebrates life with style. The Day of the Dead in Baja isn’t ancient tradition, but it’s quickly becoming one—thanks to the crew at Provino Baja California.
This year marks the fourth edition of the Velada Cultural del Día de Muertos at Bodega Santo Tomás, a venue that always feels half winery, half movie set. What started as a cultural experiment in 2022 has turned into the grand finale of Provino’s calendar. And honestly, who wouldn’t want to end the year with a toast to both ancestors and vineyards?
The Afternoon of Offerings
The day begins with Tarde de Ofrendas, a free event at Plaza Santo Tomás from 2 to 7 p.m. The plaza bursts with color—papel picado sways in the breeze, children chase each other with churros, and someone’s abuela insists you try her tamales.
For grown-ups, 120 pesos buys a tasting card with three pours of Baja wine. That’s not indulgence; that’s cultural participation. “We wanted to mark the end of the grape harvest and pay tribute to our origins,” said Héctor Corona, Provino’s treasurer.
This edition also celebrates 25 years of Provino and 35 years of the Vendimia festivals. More milestones mean more toasts, and no one in Ensenada is complaining.
Two spirits, one celebration—where wine meets Wixárika art under a sky of papel picado.
When Night Falls, the Catrinas Arrive
As daylight fades, the Noche de Catrinas begins inside the historic cellars. The setting glows with candles, laughter, and the faint clink of wine glasses. Tickets cost 1,200 pesos and include a commemorative glass, unlimited tastings, and access to over 100 wine labels from 48 Baja wineries. Think of it as trick-or-treating for adults—no cavities included.
Food lovers are in for a treat too. Twelve restaurants, including Comal, Terranoble, MIHLE, and Malva, will serve up comfort classics like tamales en mole negro, tortas de chilaquil, and the traditional pan de muerto. Soft, buttery, and sugar-dusted, it tastes like nostalgia with a side of powdered sugar.
A Guest with Spirit
This year’s guest state is Nayarit, bringing its culture, art, and rhythm to the mix. The highlight is a breathtaking altar that fuses Baja’s wine heritage with Wixárika (Huichol) artistry. Each bead and stitch tells a story—of stars, spirits, and the cosmos. It’s not decoration; it’s devotion in color.
Music, Art, and Magic in Motion
Music fills every corner. Mariachi Tlaquepaque, Melissa Carrasco’s trio, and Son del Puerto set the tone, blending tradition with joy. The Danzares de Nayarit troupe adds a dynamic touch with their performance, “Nayarit, el México por descubrir.” It’s a show full of movement, folklore, and heart.
Meanwhile, local women artisans from Ensenada’s cartonería workshop will display their handmade Catrinas. The star of the show? A monarch butterfly–inspired figure unveiled at the press preview. Each piece is available for purchase, supporting the artists and their craft—proof that beauty can also be community work.
Fewer Guests, More Charm
Last year, the event packed 600 attendees. This time, organizers capped it at 500 lucky souls to make the experience more personal—and to improve everyone’s selfie angles. Tickets are available at provino.mx, Hotel Coral y Marina, Cava Santo Tomás, and Provino’s office.
“Every year, more people show up painted,” said Juan Carlos Ochoa, Provino’s General Manager. “It’s what gives the night its magic.”
So, bring your face paint, your grandmother’s earrings, and your favorite wine buddy. The Velada isn’t about mourning. It’s about celebrating life—Baja-style. Bright, bold, and slightly buzzed.
