Articles, Food, Sabor Patrol

Sabor Patrol Visits Comal Restaurant

Some restaurants try to impress you. Comal tries to explain itself.

That’s not a bad thing—just something you notice early on.

Comal is built around a clear mission: showcase regional Mexican cuisine through technique, memory, and ingredients that speak louder than garnish. Chef David Rocha, who has spent years refining a style rooted in Mexican tradition with contemporary execution, isn’t chasing trends here. He’s chasing structure, intention, and identity. Most of the time, he gets there.

Service-wise, Jaziel, our server, did exactly what a tasting menu demands: steady pacing, clear explanations, and genuine attentiveness without hovering. Every dish arrived with context, which helps when the menu leans conceptual. That said, a few operational details—like not changing cutlery between courses—stand out more than they should at this level.

Xoxollota (Aperitivo)

Presentation 9/10

A strong visual start. The stone plate, corn bread form, and restrained use of color work beautifully. The frijol base adds texture without stealing focus.

Flavor 7.3/10

The filling fell short. Slightly doughy and underseasoned, it lacked the punch expected from a first bite meant to set the tone.

Shishito Chile in Black Mole (First Course)

Presentation 7/10

Minimal to the point of feeling a bit careless.

Flavor 8.5/10

This is where technique shows. The mole is deep, layered, and clearly the product of time and patience. The chiles are well seasoned and confident.

Squash Salad with Xiquilpa (Second Course)

Presentation 6/10

Oversized and a bit clumsy. This dish wanted a bowl, not a wide plate.

Flavor 9/10

Bright, balanced, and refreshing. Acid, salt, and restrained heat from the habanero work together beautifully. One of the most cohesive plates of the night.

Banana Molote with Cotija Cheese (Third Course)

Presentation 8.3/10

Clean, thoughtful, and restrained—though again, a flat plate would elevate it visually.

Flavor 9.5/10

A standout. Every element—plantain, mole, crema, cotija, quesillo—plays its role without overpowering the others. Even for those wary of cotija, this dish wins you over.

Sweet Potato Tamal (Fourth Course)

Presentation 8/10

Large but visually organized. Colors stay distinct, and the plating respects the dish’s traditional roots.

Flavor 7/10

Simple, maybe too simple. The masa lacked depth, the quesillo added little, and the salsa felt unnecessary. At this point in a seven-course menu, the portion size also works against it.

Catch of the Day over Chileatole (Fifth Course)

Presentation 10/10

The most visually successful dish of the night. Clean lines, vibrant contrast, and the right plate choice.

Flavor 8.8/10

Perfectly cooked fish and a rich, comforting chileatole. Just a touch more salt would have taken it from very good to excellent.

Pork Pancetta on Pepita Bed with Red Sauce (Sixth Course)

Presentation 8.8/10

Well-proportioned and clean. The lime garnish is a smart touch.

Flavor 9.2/10

Exceptional execution. The pancetta is tender, rich, and expertly handled. Balanced beautifully with the sauce and pepita base. One of the strongest savory courses.

Desserts (Seventh Course)

Coffee Flan with Chocolate Ganache and Salted Caramel

Presentation 10/10

Despite a chipped plate, the dessert itself shines.

Flavor 10/10

Balanced, elegant, and deeply satisfying. The salt lifts everything exactly where it should.

Buñuelo with Mint Ice Cream, Roasted Pears, and Mamey

Presentation 8.7/10

Clean but risky—the salt placement can ruin a bite if mixed unintentionally.

Flavor 6/10

The weakest course. Pears were too firm, textures competed, and the mint ice cream barely announced itself. Conceptually interesting, structurally unfocused.

Final Notes

• Cutlery is not changed between courses

• Dishes are explained clearly and thoughtfully

• Service is warm and professional

• Atmosphere is inviting, though music runs loud to mask the open kitchen

• The restaurant succeeds in showcasing regional Mexican cuisine with intent

The Verdict

Comal is not a restaurant for quick cravings or safe choices. It’s a place that wants you to think, listen, and occasionally forgive a misstep in exchange for ambition. When it works, it works very well. When it doesn’t, you can still see the idea behind it—and that counts for something.

This is a kitchen with something to say.

It just needs to say it a little more clearly, and a little more consistently.

Sabor Patrol approved—with notes.

author avatar
Leo Quintero

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