La Verbena 2025 Gets the Green Light

La Verbena Brings Bold Flavors and Big Energy to Ensenada

Ensenada is about to pop the cork on one of its most beloved harvest season traditions. La Verbena de Santo Tomás returns this Saturday, August 16, and it’s ready to prove that wine, art, and food can still throw a better party than Netflix.

This is the 33rd edition of the event, set in the heart of downtown at the Plaza Santo Tomás. Organized by the Fundación Elías Pando and the Centro Cultural Santo Tomás, it’s part of the Fiestas de la Vendimia—aka Ensenada’s annual excuse to celebrate wine like it’s an Olympic sport.

Why “La Verbena”?

The name comes from an old Spanish tradition where towns gathered at night for music, dancing, food, and drink. It also happens to be the name of a plant (Verbena officinalis) once used in folk celebrations. In other words, “verbena” is basically code for “let’s party, but classy.”

A Local Icon

Yes, it’s emblematic. La Verbena isn’t just another Vendimia event—it’s a love letter to Ensenada’s cultural and wine roots. It also puts the spotlight on Bodegas de Santo Tomás, the oldest winery in Baja California, founded in 1888. This year’s edition brings back the intimate, community vibe with a 150-pesos cover that includes tastings, a commemorative glass, and enough reasons to call a taxi.

Wine First, Beer… Maybe Later

Traditionally, it’s all about the wine—especially when you’re standing in the shadow of one of Mexico’s wine pioneers. This year, beer will also be available. We’re not saying you shouldn’t enjoy it, but if you’re here for hops, you might be missing the point. The focus is still on wine in all its forms: experimental blends, food pairings, and guided tastings.

What’s On the Menu?

Expect live music from electronic beats to Latin rhythms, performance art, grape stomping, and wine workshops. The Plaza’s restaurants will serve up local flavors, while pop-up kitchens and tasting bars keep your glass and plate full. Look for the “Cata y Coto” sessions at Bar Escala and bites from chefs working right in front of you.

Behind the Scenes at La Verbena
#Loic Barbara, the mastermind behind La Verbena’s cultural mix, promises a celebration with wine, flavor, and more dance moves than you expect.

Culture Meets Celebration

Art installations, creative markets, and kids’ activities make this a family-friendly affair. That said, don’t be surprised if you spend most of your time hopping between wine stands like a well-dressed scavenger hunter.

La Verbena runs from 1:00 PM to 1:00 AM, which means you have 12 solid hours to experience one of Ensenada’s most charming traditions. It’s not just a party—it’s a taste of the city’s history in every sip.

Bottom line: If you’ve never been, you’re overdue. And if you have, you already know this is the event where Ensenada shows off its true flavor—one pour at a time.

Claudia Agatón Makes History at the Grito

Historic First Woman Grito in Ensenada With Edith Márquez 

Ensenada’s about to swap its sandals for sombreros. This September 15, the city will celebrate Fiestas Patrias like never before — and make history in the process.

Mayor Claudia Agatón Muñiz will be the first woman in Ensenada’s history to lead the Grito de Independencia. About time, right? She’ll be up on the Playa Hermosa stage, ready to shout ¡Viva México! to thousands of locals, tourists, and anyone within earshot — probably including a few confused pelicans.

And because historic moments deserve a proper soundtrack, Mexican pop legend Edith Márquez will follow the patriotic yelling with a full-on concert. Bring tissues. She’s famous for songs that make you cry, sing, and question your last breakup — sometimes all at once.

What’s in Store Before the Grito

The fun starts at 7:00 PM. Playa Hermosa’s esplanade will turn into a giant, family-friendly block party. Expect tacos, tamales, pozole, churros, and that smell of grilled corn that makes you instantly hungrier than you thought possible. Drinks? Oh, plenty. From aguas frescas to Baja’s craft beers — and yes, the grown-up margaritas will be there too.

There will be live performances before the main act, because nothing says “We love you, Mexico” like dancing in the sand while holding a plate of street food.

The Moment Everyone’s Waiting For

At around 11:00 PM, lights dim, the crowd pushes forward, and Mayor Agatón grabs the microphone. Cue the bell ringing — the tradition that’s been part of the Grito since 1810. She’ll shout out the heroes of independence, and the crowd will shout back ¡Viva! after each name. By the time she yells ¡Viva México! the energy will be electric — and slightly sticky from all the cotton candy in the crowd.

Edith Márquez Lights Up Ensenada’s Fiestas Patrias
#Edith Márquez Lights Up Ensenada’s Fiestas Patrias

Then the stage belongs to Edith Márquez. Her set list will likely include Fue mi Error, Mi Fantasía, Entiende Que Ya, and Mírame. If you’re not singing along, don’t worry — the crowd will carry you.

Day Two: The Parade Showdown

On Monday, September 16, the party switches gears. The Plaza Cívica de la Patria will host the official ceremony marking 215 years since the start of Mexico’s independence movement. Then comes the Desfile Cívico Militar — part marching band, part military precision, part “wait, is that a horse in the middle of downtown?”

You’ll see school kids marching in perfectly imperfect lines, veterans in polished uniforms, and community groups waving flags like their lives depend on it. The parade route will snake through Ensenada’s main streets, so plan ahead if you want a good spot — or if you just want to avoid being stuck behind a drum line for an hour.

Why You Should Go

It’s not every year you get to see history, music, and churros in the same night. This is the first time a woman has ever led Ensenada’s Grito, and the first time Playa Hermosa hosts the city’s biggest patriotic bash. Plus, the weather in mid-September? Warm enough for sandals, cool enough to survive the crowd.

So, September 15 and 16 — two days of ¡Vivas!, music, and patriotic calories. We’ll see you there. And yes, you can bring your dancing shoes… but flip-flops work too.

Rosarito Brings the Opera Back to the Beach—Free for All

Rosarito’s seaside stage gets ready for its second grand operatic comeback—yes, with real high notes and no high drama.

If you’ve ever wanted to sip wine, watch the sun dip into the Pacific, and hear a soprano hit a note that could crack glass—this is your moment. Rosarito’s XIII Opera by the Sea is back for its second official Operatic Encounter, and it’s not your grandma’s opera night (though she’s totally invited).

From Street Corners to Sea Stages

Back in 2009, inspired by Tijuana’s “Ópera en la Calle,” a group of cultural movers and shakers brought the drama (the good kind) to the beach. Their goal? Take world-class opera out of the theater and into the heart of Baja—with ocean views and free admission.

#Flyer from 2016

For a few years, it became a local favorite. Then, after a break, the festival returned in 2023. This time, it wasn’t just about singing—it added workshops, lectures, and more ways to get the crowd involved.

What’s Happening This Year?

From August 9 to 15, Rosarito’s CEART will host the Second Operatic Encounter (ENOR). This means a full week of masterclasses, rehearsals, and musical happenings—all open to the public and completely free.

Moreover, the grand finale takes place on Saturday, August 16, from 3 PM to 9 PM at the Explanada de las Artes, an outdoor space just steps from the sea. Expect theatrical performances, powerful voices, and the best sunset backdrop on the coast.

Why Should You Go?

First off, it’s fun. This isn’t a black-tie event where clapping at the wrong time gets you the side-eye. Instead, think flip-flops, food trucks, and open-air arias.

Second, it brings the arts to everyone. Whether you’re an opera regular or have no clue what a mezzo-soprano is, there’s something for you here. Even kids get into it.

Plus, you’ll support local talent, meet artists from around Mexico, and enjoy Rosarito’s food scene in one go.

A Cultural Boost, Baja Style

Opera can sometimes feel distant, but this festival makes it approachable. During the week, performers offer workshops and Q&A sessions. As a result, you get to see how the magic happens—no ticket required.

This effort also boosts Rosarito’s profile as more than just a beach town. Thanks to events like this, it’s becoming a cultural destination too.

Know Before You Go

  • ENOR Events: August 9–15, 9 AM–6 PM
  • Location: CEART Playas de Rosarito
  • Final Performance: August 16, 3 PM–9 PM
  • Entry Fee: $0 pesos. Yep, free.
  • What to Bring: Curiosity, sunscreen, and maybe a chair.

Final Notes

Whether you’re an opera buff or just opera-curious, Opera by the Sea makes for a great day out. It’s free, it’s cultural, and it’s got wine. What else do you need?

Besides, where else can you hear Verdi while wearing sandals?

Listen to The Deep Dive, our new podcast with real news, sarcasm, and no bad news—unless it’s funny. Quick episodes made for multitasking. Subscribe now!

Turn Up the Fun: GGNorth Now Has a Podcast

Subscribe now to The Deep Dive podcast by GGNorth

Reading is great—until you’re flipping tortillas, walking the dog, or forgot your glasses again. So, we made listening an option.

Say hello to The Deep Dive, the new audio spin-off from Gringo Gazette North. It’s still us, just louder—and hands-free.

The brains behind it? Luisa Rosas-Hernández (yes, that Luisa—the one who writes all this) and Oliver Quintero, our publisher and chaos coordinator.

The subjects? Based on Luisa’s original articles, crafted into quick audio episodes with our signature style.

We kicked things off Tuesday with “Margaritas, Music & Mat Time: Ensenada’s 77th Party”. Missed it? Don’t worry—episode two just dropped. We keep things moving around here.

Now, you can stay informed without putting down your spatula or opening a laptop. Whether you’re on the road, cooking dinner, or pretending to be busy, we’ve got you covered.

Also, if a topic grabs your attention, you can find the full article on our website—or follow us on social media.

  • ✅ Real news
  • ✅ Sarcasm included
  • ✅ No bad news (unless it’s hilarious)

We made this for our loyal readers—and all the curious souls who found us while waiting at the DMV.

🎧 Click here to listen and subscribe before your margarita melts.

No Bad News. Unless It Matters. Or It’s Funny.

Family

Dreaming off the Grid A Family Takes the Leap, Part I of 2

June fog was just burning off the coast when I pulled into Tempest Traders just south of Rosarito. I’ve long been wanting to write about this family’s story as they are building a life off the grid. This idea has become a popular topic of late. Of course, here in Baja there are many original families who have been living for decades in the wilderness on ranchos with no conveniences. I’m thinking as I get out of the car that a lack of conveniences is not what you would call an American dream. In this age of instant living everything is within a touch of the finger tips. What would inspire a family to make this kind of move? Drew, Annel and Sasha Mattews greeted me with warm hugs and we took seats in the shade.

Drew started with, “We had no idea of moving to Baja, let alone living off grid. But something happened in 2016 and we just knew that we were going to make a move. Our dream had started out wanting to travel.” But on one of their visits to Annel’s parent’s home in Rosarito they were bitten by the Baja Bug. Sometimes it takes a while to realize it. They were doing quite well in North County San Diego. Annel and Drew’s Kitchen was a very popular place at the weekend Farmers Market. Drew had graduated from a culinary school in upstate New York and it aligned perfectly with Annel’s background as she came from the family’s restaurant business. Coming together they created a fresh farm to table menu, as well as a very successful catering business for outdoor events. Annel added about the leaving, “It was the toughest decision we ever made as a family. Drew quipped, “Friends and family were really concerned about our mental health.”

#Rainbow

It became clear they wanted a home outside of Rosarito. With no effort they found just the place in La Misión. It was perfect for continuing their culinary best. The couple created home delivery service to the communities. Later they opened a retreat center following the shamanic practice of the sweat lodge and the lovely Cacao ceremony. (link here). While inviting people into their retreat center a new dream arose to own land. Twelve acres in the pristine hills and a 1960 vintage travel trailer became their getaway place. Drew joked, “A tiny space and big land.” When they lost the lease on their home it forced them into looking at the idea of living permanently off the beaten path. Often times committing to one’s long held dreams comes with a period of sacrifice.

I asked, “What are the first most important things you had to focus on?” Drew nodded, “Water, power, and where the waste goes.” This is rarely considered when purchasing a home in an urban setting. We tend to take for granted that these very important things are provided. Annel giggles about the waste, “No one is interested in knowing where “it” goes.” We all laughed, and a lusty riff began amongst us adding jokes to where “it” went and what to do with “it.”  Yep, living off the grid means you have to be responsible for “it.”

The first need is water. Drew explained, “The camper has a water pump, shower and a hot water heater for a little comfort.” Water, the most important element in life is answered by the water trucks. Their water is hauled from a local well and fills the large storage tanks. Kumiai neighbors came to locate well sites on their property. Using willow branches for dousing they found several well drilling opportunities. Very good luck.

Editor’s Note: Martina is a freelance journalist and storyteller. She has been gathering stories of Baja California for nearly 40 years and has written many of them in her book, Dust in My Sandals, Tales from a Baja Traveler. See our ad and order now!

Detour Route (in yellow):

Heads Up Drivers: Detour Ahead on the Way to Rosarito

Partial Closure Hits Key Tijuana Bypass This Week

If your plans this week involve cruising down to Rosarito, better map out a new route.

Starting Saturday, August 2 through Wednesday, August 7, a portion of Boulevard Cuauhtémoc Sur, near Nodo Morelos, will be partially closed. The cause? The state is finally fixing a damaged concrete slab that’s been bumping everyone around for a while.

Arturo Espinoza Jaramillo, Baja’s head of Infrastructure and Urban Development (SIDURT), said the repairs require closing the exit ramp from Libramiento Salvador Rosas Magallón that heads toward Playas de Rosarito.

Before you shout ¡no mames!, there’s a workaround.

SIDURT recommends this scenic little detour:

  • Use the three ramps of Nodo Morelos to hop onto Boulevard Cuauhtémoc Sur but head toward downtown Tijuana.
  • Then, take the ramp to Libramiento Rosas Magallón in the Playas de Tijuana direction.
  • Finally, take the last ramp to get back onto Boulevard Cuauhtémoc Sur heading south to Rosarito.

Yep—it’s a mini roller coaster, but it’ll get you there.

Important note: This closure has nothing to do with the recently built Nodo Morelos bridge, which is still standing tall and flowing smoothly with over 100,000 vehicles per day.

The real reason? Just wear and tear.

SIDURT is asking drivers to be extra careful: follow speed limits, respect warning signs, and brace for possible congestion. The smoother ride after August 7 should make up for the temporary headache.

Heading out of town? Maybe leave five minutes early, bring a good playlist, and skip the road rage. After all, this is Baja. You’ll get there—with a taco in hand and sand between your toes.

Cultural Complex Los Pinos

Free Baja Festival Brings Food and Dance to CDMX

A Weekend of Dance, Storytelling, and Smoke-Kissed Flavor

CDMX – August 2–3, 2025 — This weekend, Baja California is packing its books, spices, dancers, and legends—and heading straight to Mexico City with “Cocinas de humo”.

Baja California en Los Pinos” lands at the iconic Complejo Cultural Los Pinos, giving chilangos a taste of the state’s rich, spicy, colorful culture. From 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. both Saturday and Sunday, entry is free, and so are the vibes.

Part of the ongoing series “México en Los Pinos,” the event features a full lineup of music, theater, dance, traditional food, crafts, and family-friendly workshops. Basically, it’s a cultural road trip without the highway miles.

#Smoke Kitchens: Traditional Baja Cuisine

What’s Happening?

You’ll find everything from oral storytelling to rock-pop concerts, folk dance to mask-making workshops.

  • Lizeth Marcela will share Baja’s legends out loud. Expect mysterious whispers of the desert and tales from the borderlands.
  • Dancer Alejandro Chávez performs “Manuel,” a modern piece full of emotion and movement.
  • Rock-pop vibes arrive with Jesús Bautista and his show “Me verás subir.”
  • And for theater lovers? Minerva Velasco brings Frida Kahlo’s life to the stage in a solo monologue with heart and paintbrush.

Folkloric rhythms hit hard when dancers from the Escuela Nacional de Danza Folklórica light up the stage with calabaceado—a high-energy northern dance that’s part cowboy, part fiesta, all grit.

Books, Smoke, and Handmade Treasures

Not into the stage stuff? No problem. You can still soak up the essence of Baja.

The Nortestación collective is bringing a literary pop-up filled with independent publishers, book giveaways, and author meet-and-greets. Expect some Baja-flavored stories and maybe a free read or two.

Kids get their own fun too. There’s a mask-making workshop where they’ll create creatures and characters inspired by Baja’s cultural roots.

And for foodies? Oh yes—this is where Baja shows off.

The Cocinas de Humo (literally “smoke kitchens”) will fill the air with slow-cooked dishes straight from the ocean and desert. Traditional cooks from Baja are bringing their best firewood game: think grilled seafood, salsas with a bite, and maybe even a cactus surprise.

Meanwhile, artisans and producers will take over Plaza Jacarandas and El Tejabán de Cencalli to offer handcrafted textiles, carved wood, and local agro-products—aka stuff that smells, feels, and tastes like Baja.

If You Go

Here’s the full scoop on what you can experience this weekend in Los Pinos, Mexico City’s historic cultural center, as Baja takes over!
#Here’s the full scoop on what you can experience this weekend in Los Pinos, Mexico City’s historic cultural center, as Baja takes over!
  • 📍Location: Complejo Cultural Los Pinos Molino del Rey 252, Bosque de Chapultepec, CDMX
  • 🗓️ Dates: Saturday and Sunday, August 2–3
  • 🕙 Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
  • 🎟️ Price: Free! Just bring curiosity (and maybe stretchy pants).

GGNorth Pro Tip:

If you’re from Baja and in Mexico City this weekend, you’ve got no excuse. And if you’ve never had Baja-style food cooked in real smoke by women who learned from their grandmas? This is your moment.

Los Pinos will smell like salt air and carne asada. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.

No Bad News. Just Good Culture.

July 28, 2025 Edition

How to download a PDF of this publication:
1. Locate the icon toolbar at the bottom part of the newspaper window. If you can’t find it you can try going full screen by clicking “Read Now” on the screen.
2. Click on the cloud icon (Download PDF) on the bottom right corner of your screen.
(See example below)

“Sé Turista en Tu Baja California” card—now in English—so our readers can understand what it looks like and how it works

Unlock Baja’s Best Deals with This Free Tourist Card

Free discounts across Baja? Yes, please.

While some folks are flying off to Europe this summer, smart locals and curious gringos are unlocking Baja’s best deals with just a few taps on their phones.

Governor Marina del Pilar has been pushing the digital “Be a Tourist in Your Baja California” card—and it’s not a gimmick. This free discount program is designed to boost local tourism while rewarding you for eating, sipping, and exploring your way through the state.

The card gives you access to exclusive discounts at over 400 businesses across all seven municipalities, from Ensenada’s wine country to the desert art stops in San Felipe. We’re talking restaurants, boutique hotels, beachy spas, quirky souvenir shops, and even guided adventures. Think of it like Baja’s local “passport to fun”—but without the airport lines or TSA agents.

How to get it—fast and painless

Signing up is laughably easy. Go to seturistabc.com, register, and your digital card hits your inbox within seconds. No birth certificate. No utility bill. No bureaucratic scavenger hunt.

If You See This Screen, You Did It Right
#If You See This Screen, You Did It Right: Now just check your inbox—your tourist discount card is waiting!

There’s just one tiny detail—don’t expect a slick Apple Wallet pass. What you get is a trusty ol’ PDF. Not sexy, but it gets the job done.

For business owners

There’s also a simple form for local businesses that want to join the platform. So if you run a taco joint, a surf school, or a winery, it only takes a few minutes to get in front of thousands of discount-hungry visitors.

Where you can use it

The card’s already being used by more than 20,000 people, unlocking deals in places like La Rumorosa, Tecate, Rosarito, and Valle de Guadalupe. You’ll find promos at the Museo Restaurante La Rumorosa, fun at Campo Recreativo El Vikingo, and chill time at Rancho La Ponderosa.

So whether you’re sipping rosé in El Sauzal, climbing boulders in San Pedro Mártir, or just hunting for a better deal on your next fish taco—this card is your new best friend.

TL;DR ((Too Long; Didn’t Read):

✅ Free.

✅ Works across Baja.

✅ Helps local businesses.

✅ PDF-based, not Wallet-friendly—but hey, you’ll survive.

If you were waiting for a reason to explore more of Baja… this is it.

Sky Columns in Formation

New Tijuana Viaduct Hits Delay, Not the Brakes

If you were hoping to cruise above Tijuana’s daily traffic chaos by next year… slow down. The Viaducto Elevado—that shiny, elevated road linking the airport to Playas—won’t open in 2025 after all.

According to Tijuana’s Chamber of Construction (CMIC), this big-budget shortcut is now aiming for mid-2026.

What’s the Viaduct About?

This project plans to build a 10.5-kilometer road, with 6.6 kilometers suspended in the air. It connects Tijuana International Airport to Playas de Tijuana. No stoplights (No semáforos), just smooth, high-speed transit over the worst congestion zones.

Work officially began in November 2023. Engineers installed columns. Beams followed. Things looked promising.

So… What Went Wrong?

Don’t blame politics or Trump’s tariffs. The holdup is local.

Crews can’t finish certain sections because of land ownership issues. Some property owners haven’t moved. Underground utilities also need relocation. And areas like Cañón del Matadero? Not the friendliest ground for concrete.

#Workers and machines hustle under the sun, assembling what might just be the fastest road Tijuana has never seen… yet.

All this adds time. So, forget September 2025. Mid-2026 is the new goal—if nothing else pops up.

Where’s the Money Coming From?

Mexico is footing the bill. The total investment tops 12 billion pesos—about $700 million USD. Most of it comes from FONADIN and the Customs Fund.

SEDENA, Mexico’s military engineers, are running the build. No budget drama here. They’ve got the plan, the crew, and the machines.

And here’s a smart move: they’re using Mexican steel. That means U.S. tariffs don’t apply. Local companies like INGETEK and APROS are supplying the prefabs, cutting import delays and cost surprises.

What’s in It for You?

Once finished, the viaduct could cut your airport-to-beach time by half. Tourists will love it. So will delivery drivers, border commuters, and anyone who’s tired of hearing Waze say, “rerouting again.”

It’ll also take pressure off key roads like Vía Rápida and Libramiento Sur. Less congestion, less honking, better air. That’s a win.

So, Is It Still Worth It?

Absolutely. Sure, the finish line moved. But this isn’t a failed promise—it’s just delayed progress. Projects this big always hit snags.

The important part? It’s still happening. It’s still funded. And it’s still going to make life better when it opens.

We’ll keep an eye on the timeline. Until then, pack patience. And maybe download a good podcast. That’s a win. Even if it arrives fashionably late.